Waves hello

**SithArts** · 10-20-2013, 11:35 PM

Hello everyone! New to the forums and been looking around for a while now and finally figure it's time to post and introduce myself.

I've played around with the builder and think I got a design I like. Of course there are some concerns and questions I have. See, I'm trying to go ahead and plan ahead for the future but work in stages. I don't have a lot of money but been dying for my own saber for a long time and coming across the shop compared to buying a custom built one from someone else or a company is the route I am leaning. Again, because of cost. Since the features I want in my saber I believe will also influence the design. Here's my idea.

Buy all hilt pieces and assemble them when they come in.
No electronics. Not even the basic LED set up.
Maybe get the switches so there isn't holes in it even if they don't work yet.
May not even get a blade yet since there won't be electronics and no current sparing partners.

So questions would be as I plan. I know powder-coating and other custom services are available. So how hard is it to paint pieces myself? It is possible later, after enjoying the brand new saber look it may end up weathered in the future.

I have a dremel and I'm thinking of cutting my own shroud out of sink tube and attaching using the button head screws. I don't have a drill press though. And know that would make drilling any holes on my own easier. I've also heard some people have had problems with painted pieces and using a shroud over them.

I know that a switch box and switches can't go over the threaded areas. But what about other screws for attatching the covertech button, button head screws for the shroud, etc.

So far the hilt is about 12 3/4" or 13 1/4" long, depending upon which choke I decide on. Opinions on those lengths or any other comments? I truly love choke style 2 but it's not in my design because it's male threaded end, is flat. If it had a slope like style 1 I would be in love with it then. If i could suggest and design a piece, that would be my first.

I am also concerned about the placement of the covertech button but I know you would probably need to see where I want it. It would be beside the gear extension piece and don't know if it would be to close to it and make it rub while in the covertech clip?

I also love the trim rings but as I read it is suggested to keep away from the pommel and blade holder. Is this law? What if I did put a trim ring say between choke style 1 and blade holder style 3?

Now for the help on the other features I like. I like the kill key feature, recharge port, Foc, lock up sounds, etc. I am thinking about switch box style 19. But I don't know if I want the recharge port in a different location. If I got the Petit Crouton will it be able to perform Foc and the lock up sounds etc? If not then I won't need a box to hold that tactile switch. And do I need a R.I.C.E. port? Or can I modify all the sounds and features by breaking down the hilt and removing the SD card? I guess I need to know what all the PC's abilities are.

I'm sorry all this is so so long but I did my best to explain everything. I believe answering these questions will help me finish up the actual design and locations of everything for my saber.

I really would like a crystal chamber, very awesome custom chassis but that may be a stretch. All internals will come at a later date. But I'm trying to plan for them too now. LOL I may be dreaming big. I've seen some wicked custom chassis out there and any tutorials or tips on building them is also greatly appreciated. I saw one video where the guy removed his and it went from the pommel to blade holder and I can't remember where he had his switches. But it looked great.

**Silver Serpent** · 10-21-2013, 05:11 AM

First of all, welcome to the forums! It's good to hear you've been reading for a while, as we have a TON of information available. It's a bit overwhelming at first, but it gets easier as you go along.

I'll try to answer the questions I can.

You can certainly start with a static hilt, and add electronics later as funds become available.

Painting is pretty easy. We have a great tutorial on painting and baking over here: http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...aking-Tutorial If you do paint your pieces, the shroud can scratch your paint job when you slide it over the painted parts. Different shroud designs may be more or less prone to scratching the paint, as will a thick coat of paint.

You generally want to avoid drilling into threaded areas of the hilt. If you mess up the threads or leave bits of metal in the threaded area, your parts are very likely to lock up and freeze together. It's possible to drill holes there, but it isn't recommended for the inexperienced.

Personally, I try to keep my sabers around 11"-13" in length. Some people prefer longer sabers, for a two-handed grip. Others seem to enjoy really short sabers. 12" is a common length.

Covertech buttons can go pretty much anywhere you have room to add a screw. Just mind the threaded sections of the hilt, and you can attach it anywhere you like.

Trim rings next to the pommel can affect the locking style speaker holders. There are new speaker holders that don't lock in place, and are used by the chassis system. If you use those, then you could certainly put trim rings down there. Trim rings next to the blade holder would keep you from locking your heatsink and LED assembly in place. I'd try to avoid putting one up there. If you really want a trim ring up by the blade holder, then use a 0.75" extension to keep the ring from going directly on the blade holder.

The activation boxes are all very nice. I find they make installation of electronics easier for me. The good news is that they come in many different configurations. If you want to eventually use the Petit Crouton, you want to be sure you have 2 switches (at least one must be momentary). If you go with the Nano Biscotte, you only need a single momentary switch. R.I.C.E. ports are not necessary. You can certainly remove the SD card and adjust all the settings manually. You have to remove the SD card to swap out sound files anyhow, so it is good practice to assemble your saber in such a manner that the SD card is accessible with minimal disassembly. Read through the manuals for the Petit Crouton and the Nano Biscotte for a breakdown of their respective features and installation instructions.

Crystal chambers are cool. Feel free to leave some room in the saber plan to add one later. There aren't a lot of tutorials for building them, since they tend to be very custom to the saber. Space is at a premium inside the saber hilt. Don't be surprised if you can't fit one inside your first saber.

Keep your eyes on you wallet. This hobby is addicting. Before you know it, you may find yourself building your third or fourth or tenth saber.

**amwolf** · 10-21-2013, 05:28 AM

Welcome! Oy, so I just spent 20 minutes writing a novel of a response, which SS has just rendered down to saying "Uh, Ditto." I'd add to get a drill press, but that depends on your workspace situation. I use mine as a multi-level shelf as well.

**SithArts** · 10-21-2013, 10:55 AM

I appreciate the information! Think I'll do some more playing with the builder later

I might try and post a picture of what i had in mind if I'm able. I know some features I cant do unless I've been around here long enough. I had built a sink tube saber long ago. But its just a prop.

**SithArts** · 10-22-2013, 07:46 PM

so I have been playing with the design some more and also see you're in Alabama as am I SS. Any way I can send you a private message? or do I just burn up this thread? LOL

**Silver Serpent** · 10-23-2013, 05:06 AM

Burn up the thread. That way the information is available for all.

PMs are available after a while. I think you need a minimum time on the forums or a minimum post count. Not sure, it's been a while for me.

**SithArts** · 10-24-2013, 07:56 PM

Attachment 9232 Attachment 9233

Here is my design so far. Pieces:
Pommel style 4
Gear
Ribbed extension
3 Inch double female extension
Choke style 1
Blade holder style 3

This is my thing. If you look at the placement of where I want the covertech knob it may slightly conflict with the threads? This is really where I would like it though. The short flat area of the ribbed extension and not to overlap over the groves. Is it still possible for Tim to place it there? I was thinking a trim ring could solve the issue so the gear's threads aren't drilled into. Finally covertech knob could be placed actually on the gear extension piece. BUT I feel it my stick way to far out there. Could the covertech piece be recessed into the gear piece a little? Thoughts, opinions?

Second I will place box style 19 on the 3 inch double female extension. The total length of this saber like this is 13.2 inches. Pretty long in my opinion but not as long as some I've seen out there, yet again still longer than others. I want something to do one and two handed dueling. Also the shroud I plan on custom making for it will probably make it about a total 13.5-14 inches. The choke on there is the 2.5 inch one. I was looking at this because of the rating and comments on that part for the spinning tricks. Now I don't have large hands and was thinking I could shorten it to just the 2 inch choke style 1 part if anyone has experience and an opinion between those two? As I've said before I truly love the choke style 2 the most but it's male end doesn't have an angle and feel it may not be as nice a grip.

Sorry so long and anyone's opinions on the design and concepts are welcome. If I should move this part of the discussion to another thread please let me know and I apologize in advance.