Parts list for First lighsaber

[mconnaker]

After hours of surfing the net, and trying to get a basic understanding of CSS, I think i finally have my lightsaber parts down. I do have a questions. before I get to that, this is what I'm looking at:

Phase I
Lightsaber:
Hilt Style 1
- Machine Guarded Style switch hole
Blade Holder Style 7
- W/Heat Sink V2
MPS Pommel Style 6
MPS Insert Style 12

Phase II
MWS BuckPuck
MHS Speaker and 4x AAA battery holder
MWS Guarded Style Latching Switch
Rebel Star LED & MHS Heatsink Module

Phase III
MWS Pre-Wired Nano Biscotte Sound Mod


Now for questions!

Question 1: Do I need the MWS buckPuck if I am getting the MWS Pre-wired Nano Biscotte Sound mod?
Question 2: Do I need The Heat sink v2 (from the blade holder) if I am getting the Rebel Star?
Question 3: do I need an MHS to 1.25 for the Speaker system?
Question 4: What am I missing?

Thanks!

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

First off, Welcome to the Forums. To answer your questions:

1. No.
2. No.
3. No, you can use the standard speaker holder you listed.

I question whether you will have enough room for the 4AAA pack/speaker and the NB in the main hilt section. Also you may want to give some thought to a chassis system for the NB to prevent it from rattling around.

[mconnaker]

First off, Welcome to the Forums. To answer your questions:

1. No.
2. No.
3. No, you can use the standard speaker holder you listed.

I question whether you will have enough room for the 4AAA pack/speaker and the NB in the main hilt section. Also you may want to give some thought to a chassis system for the NB to prevent it from rattling around.

I had thought about a chassis, but I am unsure what to get. Ideas?

[Silver Serpent]

To elaborate on FJK's response:

1. The buckpuck and the Nano are generally incompatible. The buckpuck requires more voltage to run than the Nano, and if you're powering the buckpuck properly, you've likely damaged your Nano. Use a resistor with the Nano Biscotte. There's a helpful resistor calculator in my sig.

2. It's included in the preassembled module, you won't need another one.

3. The MHS to 1.25 adapter is for making sinktube sabers. It's not needed here.

4. A few things. You'll want the MPS clip to hold your pommel insert in place. A chassis system as FJK mentioned. Blade retention screw. A blade.

You need a momentary switch with the Nano Biscotte, not a latching switch. If you're planning on building the saber first, and then adding sound at a later time, then you'll want a latching switch to start off with. Otherwise you'll have to hold the switch down to keep the saber on. Once the NB is installed, you'll have to use a momentary switch, and the board will keep it pressed for you

Consider carefully the power supply you intend to use with this setup. 4 AAA alkaline batteries provide too much voltage for the NB. You'll have to use 4 AAA NiMH instead. A single 3.7v li-ion battery is ideal, but it won't fit in your battery holder.

A chassis can be as simple as a piece of PVC tubing, cut and shaped to fit. You could also use the laser-cut chassis parts that are specially made here at TCSS. http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Ch...Parts-C74.aspx The acrylic discs are very easy to work with. It's your choice.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

You could use something like this:

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Ac...k-S3-P813.aspx

If you got the 18650 battery instead of the 4 AAA pack, you could have a fairly long run time. You would also need threaded rods and standoffs to help complete the chassis.

[mconnaker]

Thank-you both for the information. I think on cost base, I may forgo the sound mod for now. Mostly, the item will be a static prop for my character in the Rebel Legion, however I wanted lights because.. well it's bloody cool.

Another question for ya'll: What kind of hilt can I use for a shoto?

[Silver Serpent]

Whatever you can cram the electronics into. I could probably build a simple saber as short as 5 or 6 inches. If you're not using sound, the battery size is your limiting factor.

[mconnaker]

I was looking at the chassis equipment and I want to make sure I grab the right items:

For the Li-Ion 18650 Rechargeable batter module, I will need the Acrylis Chassis Disc for Recharge port, 2.1mm Power Jack & TrustFire TR-007 All-in-one-charger.
For the BuckPuck, I will need the Acrylis chassis disc for the mws BuckPuck.

What do I need to from the chassis page to hold all of this together? (Guessing the Brass 3/16 OD tube)

[Silver Serpent]

The TR-007 is designed for charging individual batteries outside of the hilt. You want this one: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/37...rger-P129.aspx with the 2.1mm adapter if you're going for in-hilt recharge. Don't forget to get chassis discs for the 18650 battery.

The 3/16 OD tube is used to go over the 4-40 threaded rod. The threaded rods and nuts will actually hold the chassis together. The 3/16 OD tube isn't necessary, but it gives a more finished appearance to your chassis, and reduces the risk of the threads on the rod from rubbing through the insulation on your wiring.

Also, if you're going to use the buckpuck, you will need a minimum of 5v to run it properly. A single 3.7v li-ion isn't enough. You'll need a pair of them to do the job. There are several 7.4v premade li-ion packs in the store to choose from. See if one of them will fit in your design.

[mconnaker]

Thank-you for the information. The chassis discs was the issue was I have in finding for the battery. I didn't see what that was 'just' for the battery only. Do you have a link to one?