Wiring check Please - A Girl's 1st Build

[Lady Eshley]

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I was hoping someone could look over this electrical diagram and let me know if I am on the right track. Basically, my goal is to use a Li-Ion Battery Set up (two 3.6V Trustfires). I want to use the amber short AV Switch, a 1000mA Buckpuck and the White P4 LED. I am pretty confused about the four prongs on the AV Switch so hopefully you guys can tell me if I'm even remotely close! Thanks in advanced!!!!

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

This isn't my speciality, but here we go. The 4 lugs on a short AV - 2 are for the switch and 2 are for the LED. The switch part should be wired in between 1 wire (generally the (+) wire).

Battery -> (+) wire -> switch -> (+) wire -> buck puck

I would wire the LED part of the switch in parallel off of the main LED wires AFTER the buck puck, and use the correct resistor for the AV LED

I'm sure SS will chime in at some point, he's better with buckpucks than I am.

[Lady Eshley]

I hadn't thought about putting the AV LED switch after the buckpuck! So would the AV LED still need a resistor if it had the buckpuck between it and the batteries? So many questions....

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Yes, because you need to limit the amperage that goes to it, 20mAh v. 1000 mAh. You could always just not wire up the LED part of the AV.

[Lady Eshley]

Hey Everyone! So as I continue to dream up the perfect saber I find myself hoping to add more and more. I've been so inspired by some of the incredible crystal chambers members have posted pics of recently. This got me thinking I'd like to try to create one. I read that you can power more than one main LED from a BuckPuck as long as you have enough battery power. That being said, is that the best way to illuminate a crystal chamber? (with a full LED?) Is there a better accent option? So far this is what I have for a wiring diagram with that general idea. I'd like to hit the AV switch and have the switch, accent LED, blade and crystal chamber all illuminate together...and power off together. Here is my diagram....please don't laugh...It's been a LONG time since this girl was in EE class!!!! lol

WireDiagram_zps946d15e3.jpg


Thanks Everyone!

[Silver Serpent]

Accent LEDs are more than sufficient for illuminating crystal chambers. The big LEDs we use for blades are too powerful for that use, unless your goal is to blind people who look at your saber.

Wire up an additional accent LED in parallel with your other accent LED, and it'll do the job of illuminating your crystal chamber just fine.

WireDiagram_zps946d15e3.jpg

I tweaked your diagram a bit. Nothing's labeled, but I followed the convention you used earlier.

[Lady Eshley]

Awesome thanks Silver Serpent...that sounds much easier Any idea where I could go to get a blue accent LED?

[Silver Serpent]

Radio Shack is usually the easiest place to get them locally. Otherwise you'll need to hit one of the big online electronics stores.

[Lady Eshley]

AVshortlatch.jpg
Hopefully that paste worked. So I finally have in the parts for my saber because I delayed my order a bit. That being said, I spent my snow day-off doing a trial wiring run (no soldering) and I have a question. For my saber I've decided to only use one accent LED but regardless, my question is about the short latching amber AV switch (as shown above in previous post). When looking at the LED resistor guide in the saber shop, there are 6 nodes and (+) and (-) LED shown. I understand that the (+) and (-) are for the switch's LED. When i wire the battery to the switch I believe I should solder it to one of the brass terminal posts. My question is, from there, do I connect that same terminal post to the (+) LED? I want the AV ring to illuminate only when the saber is turned on. Any advice??? I don't know if I have to connect the 'power in' terminal to the (+) LED post or if the switch itself makes this connection when it is 'latched'

[Silver Serpent]

Connect the positive of the battery to either one of the switch terminals (not the ones for the LED). The OTHER switch terminal will then go on to connect to the positive lines for your various components (switch LED, main blade LED, etc.) With a single accent LED (the one in the switch), you'll end up with two wires connected to the second switch terminal.