NB/AV/Recharge Port/Tri-Rebel wiring

[MedicineMan]

In my new saber build, I am putting a chassis in a 7" extension. Here are the parts fitting in the chassis:

Recharge Port
NB
18650 li-ion battery
2w Bass speaker

I am going to attempt to use the Tri-Rebel GGW and use the 2 greens for my LED.

Here is my wiring diagram:



The only things I do not have marked on this is:

Wiring for the LED within the Short green ring momentary AV switch, and the resistors for Tri-Rebel.

Please critique and let me know what I should do differently, or feel free to edit and supply me with a new diagram.



Note* I haven't been able to find through searching a wiring diagram like what I am doing. So if you know a post, link me.

Thanks

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Well, I can't really edit your diagram, but here are the changes that you need to make...

1. Remove black line going from battery to board. That should only go to recharge port.
2. The LED (+) for your AV should be wired to the 3.3v Pad on the board. See manual for location.
3. The LED (-) for your AV should be wired to the battery (-).

The AV LED should only need a minimal resistor, something like 1 ohm, 1/4 W would be fine.
Since you aren't friends with my good friend "Ohm's Law", Silver Serpent has a link to a decent resistor calculator in his signature, that you could use. It's pretty good.


Other than those changes, it looks good. Please make them and repost, and one of us will review to make sure you've got it all.

[MedicineMan]

Following what you said, here is my updated diagram:



Please critique

[Silver Serpent]

Looks better. Personally, I would move the AV LED negative from the battery to the green line on the recharge port (or pad 3 on the NB). That way you can completely cut power when the kill key is inserted. Otherwise, that LED will remain on at all times and drain your battery.

Li-Ion Battery @ 3.7v
Rebel Green 3.4v @ 1000mA
Green Illuminated AV Switch 3.3v @ 20mA

You'll want two 1 ohm 2 watt resistors (one for each Rebel die) and a 22 ohm 1/4 watt resistor for your switch LED. The main LED resistors aren't strictly necessary, but I include them as a safety measure.

[MedicineMan]

Thank you, SS. Always very helpful. Here is the finished/updated diagram:



If I do not use resistors on the main LEDs will they burn out? will they burn brighter?

[Silver Serpent]

You'd need a light meter to detect any difference in brightness. As I have been led to understand by erv, the resistors are there to limit the risk of thermal runaway. You could potentially run the saber without them, and never experience any problems. Or you could have one or both of the LEDs unexpectedly burn out. Think of the resistor as insurance against potential issues.

I don't see 22 ohm resistors in the store, however the 20mA DynaOhm resistor is perfect for this purpose. If you don't have any of 22 ohm resistors lying around, then I'd use the DynaOhm.