[Need a second opinion] 2nd saber, Updated wiring, 1st time chassis build.

[GunbladeZero]

Greetings! It has been a long time. Around 2 years actually since I made my first saber and honestly...

I kinda screwed it up a bit..

Not to say that the adventure from start to finish was bad but it was hard for me. I jumped into the hobby without thinking and now that I'm a little older and a bit wiser I want to make up for my mistakes and build an all new saber to show that I can build a saber!

First things I like to point out about my old saber. At first this was the design and finished product:



It was missing a killswitch, the wiring job was atrocious (My fault really), the green v extension was cross threaded and the board itself was... hanging. (le'gasp!)

Cut to maybe a year or so later I decided to correct the mistakes of my past and try to atleast fix it:



-I fixed the board and the wiring but the extra wires are a mess
-Used PVC to fix the hanging issue so that was handy
-The adaptor is now cross threaded but lucky enough I was smart enough to put in the second adaptor that isn't cross threaded. (Cross thread-ception)
- but I added a killswitch!

But after all that I was still left with a little bit of regret. I love my saber but I felt like I let it down as well as myself. I said I would never build another saber again...

Until now.

This time I have buckled down and told myself that I will fix my mistakes, build a chassis and have fun with it!

This is the design I'm looking out. Please don't mind the black because that is actually going to be a leather grip. It is shown next to my old model:Please feel free to suggest a different blade holder if you don't think it will much up. I will admit I am still a little indecisive:


I have my wiring done as well with the new board and I just wanted a check on it. To see if I'm using to many JST connectors haha and on a side note I will be using activation box 14 for build and I already have the RICE connection worked out:



But now I come to the chassis. This is the first time I have created a Chassis.

I'm going to use a MHS speaker mount V4 but I just wanted to check that this speaker mount will also hold my chassis in place?

I'm aware that I am using the 4AA battery holder since I'm from australia the lithium batteries can't be sent internationally which I'm fine with. What I would like to ask is will it fit into my chassis if I used this Acrylic Chassis Disc for PC 2.0 and 14500 side by side pack? Or maybe with I rounded the edges down to fit the battery pack if it would fit at all. Any pointers or tips would be GREATLY APPRECIATED

Thank you all so much!

(PS I seem to suck at actually submitting pictures so they can be seen)

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

To answer your questions:

The V4 speaker mount won't necessarily hold your chassis in place. It does not have the little lip that the earlier versions did. YOu would have to do something like using a set screw through the side of your hilt to keep it where you want it.

Also the 4 battery holder won't work with the chassis disks sold in the store. You may really want to look into finding someone in Australia that makes 14500 packs (or 14650's, 18500's whatever) similar to what Tim sells in the store. I'm almost positive that someone down there does and makes stuff like this.

For the pics, get a Photobucket account (or something like it), when you upload your pics to it, they generate links that you can just cut and paste into your thread.

[GunbladeZero]

Okay so I have fixed the Photo upload problem. That is one down but still a few to go. As for the Lithium I wasn't really keen on using them but if you think it would be better.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Li-Ions tend to be the best for the durability and the stable and consistent draw rates.

[GunbladeZero]

Li-Ions tend to be the best for the durability and the stable and consistent draw rates.

Part of me just doesn't feel very comfortable with using Lithium. I would be a fool to say I knew what to do but the fact is I don't. That's why I wanted to used the battery pack and see if it would fit and if it didn't I would just be able to round out the Chassis disk

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

I'm almost positive you can find a company there that either sells or can make you a battery pack to suit your needs. Once the pack is made, you just plug it in, like you would the store one, and the next time you really would need to touch it is to replace it once you've worn this one out.

You could try these guys: http://www.premierbatteries.com.au

[GunbladeZero]

Hang on... I just figured something out (Sorry it's 2am where I am) So my wiring is all good for charging from the saber? through the power jack?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

I'm not too sure what you mean. The recharge port wiring looks off to me - but in the PC manual, it clearly shows you how to do that the right way. With that said, IF you are going to use the recharge jack, and a LI-ion setup where you have the 4AA holder, once you wire the recharge port correctly, it should work fine. You would need a battery recharger similar to the one sold in the store http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/37...rger-P129.aspx (which you could order without an issue).

[Silver Serpent]

Definitely too many JST connectors. I've done that myself once. You'd be surprised how much room they take up.

Don't fret too much about modifying the chassis discs. I've had to do it myself a couple of times. Just go slowly with a set of needle files, and don't apply too much pressure. They're not terribly expensive. You may consider getting a spare set of them in case you screw the first one up too bad. Better to get them all at once rather than spend shipping on a second order.

FJK seems to have covered your other issues just fine.

[GunbladeZero]

I took both of your advice into consideration and looked over my schematic to find what I needed. I figured out what the problem with the recharge port and have made the change and as for the JST connections I removed the connection to the speaker and from the recharge port to the board. I was wondering if I should removed the switch for some of the other switches like the activation switch and the momentary?