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Thread: Parts list check - new saber

  1. #1

    Default Parts list check - new saber

    saberfinal.jpgNBwiring.jpg

    Hi,

    Can someone please check my parts list for me prior to me submitting my order. I also have one quick resistor question (at end of post) if someone can help with that too please. Thanks.

    HILT
    Pommel style 3 version 2
    4 inch double female extension
    V- grooved ribbed extension + powder coat black matte Tuscan style 2
    Blade holder style 16 + powder coat black matte Tuscan style 1
    (with new style heatsink)
    Pommel insert style 6
    MPS “C” clip
    Screw – blade holder 8-32 3/8” thumb screw and 8-32 3/8” set screw (I want two options)
    Switch – AV blue ring LED short
    Recharge – 2.1 jack port
    Kill switch style 2

    SERVICES
    Drill and tap blade holder
    Recessed AV switch hole (in V- groove)

    ELECTRONICS
    Li-ion 3.7 V rechargeable with PCM (local supplier TCSS don’t send overseas)
    Nano Biscotte sound module
    Premium speaker
    LED – rebel star royal blue/lens holder/thermal tape/8.7 degree lens
    LED – resistor 1 ohm 2W
    Switch – resistor 20 mA Dyna Ohm variable
    Wire 1 foot in red and black (24 gauge)
    Heat shrink 1/8”
    2 x quick connectors

    CHASSIS
    1 foot thread rail
    1 foot aluminium tube
    Acrylic discs 18650/NB
    Metallic disc style 2
    2 x 4-40 hex nuts

    OTHER
    Blade 1” TCSS battle blade 36”
    Blade plug
    Synthetic grease
    Smart charger +2.1 plug adapter

    WIRING DIAGRAM – I am going to “borrow” the wiring diagram (attached) I found on the forums that someone did an awesome job on already. I was just going to remove the accent LED from the plan however. I had one quick question about it though. I noticed he is using a 82ohm 1/4w resistor for the AV led switch. I worked out I only need a 1 ohm 1/8w resistor but was going to use the 20mA Dynaohm. Why has he used the 82 Ohm resistor, did I miss something ? Is this because of the recharge port set up. This is the only thing left I am confused about before doing my order.

    Thanks Luke
    Last edited by Aussie Luke; 07-14-2013 at 06:30 PM.

  2. #2

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    The order looks pretty good to me - nothing really sticks out as missing.

    To answer your question about the resistor. That was the resistor needed for the color of switch he was going to use (Red vs. your Blue). I vaguely remember that diagram, so I might have helped that person out. Also, using a specific resistor can be an advantage vs. the dyna-ohm, since the Dyna-Ohm takes up more space in a hilt from the looks of the pictures. Dyna-Ohms are for those who "can't do the math". A 1/8 and 1/4 W resistor are fairly small.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  3. #3

    Default

    Hi, sorry I was doing a quick edit at the same time you replied. I changed the LED resistor to a 1 Ohm 2W in my post 9using an LED calculator, is that right ? Thanks also for your advice re the dynaohm. I will change that to a 1 Ohm 1/8W resistor, does that sound right ?

    Thanks again

  4. #4

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Aussie Luke View Post
    Hi, sorry I was doing a quick edit at the same time you replied. I changed the LED resistor to a 1 Ohm 2W in my post 9using an LED calculator, is that right ? Thanks also for your advice re the dynaohm. I will change that to a 1 Ohm 1/8W resistor, does that sound right ?

    Thanks again
    You would need more like a 1 Ohm 1W for the main, though what you picked out is also fine (as long as you meet the minimum wattage which is .5W) which both do. The small resistor is fine for the AV switch.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  5. #5

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    Thanks heaps, I would be lost without these forums and all the good advice

  6. #6

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    One last thing, I noticed that you order the new style heatsink with the blade holder (hopefully this is the shim and base plate). is this all that is needed or do I have to order a seperate bit in the led section. Thanks

  7. #7

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Aussie Luke View Post
    One last thing, I noticed that you order the new style heatsink with the blade holder (hopefully this is the shim and base plate). is this all that is needed or do I have to order a seperate bit in the led section. Thanks
    If you order a heatsink unit, the v4's are adjustable so no shim would be necessary - and get the LED separately, or you *could* order this:

    http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Re...dule-P653.aspx

    - you would have to modify it or the other end for the resistor though.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  8. #8

    Default

    OK worked it out' heat sink v2 goes with that holder (both bits I was thinking of) . luke
    Last edited by Aussie Luke; 07-14-2013 at 08:30 PM.

  9. #9

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    It's not a shim. It is part of the heatsink housing, there is a copper base that the LED attaches to, and an aluminum cup that you thread the heatsink/led/holder/lens into like a sandwich to hold all the pieces together. That aluminum cup is designed then to be locked in place between the blade holder and whatever female threaded piece you attach the blade holder to. Its sorta confusing without having the pieces in hand if this is your first time using the parts, but itll make more sense once you have the parts.

  10. #10

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by GFJedi View Post
    It's not a shim. It is part of the heatsink housing, there is a copper base that the LED attaches to, and an aluminum cup that you thread the heatsink/led/holder/lens into like a sandwich to hold all the pieces together. That aluminum cup is designed then to be locked in place between the blade holder and whatever female threaded piece you attach the blade holder to. Its sorta confusing without having the pieces in hand if this is your first time using the parts, but itll make more sense once you have the parts.
    In older versions, a shim use to be necessary in certain circumstances.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

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