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Thread: My first Build (Warning: Noob Material)

  1. #1

    Default My first Build (Warning: Noob Material)

    Hello all! I'm stoked to be getting into the saber scene! I've been reading and reading and reading. Learning more every day. I think this is everything I need! I work at a steel fab shop so I'm hoping to manufacture some of my own designs as soon as I get the hang of this stuff! (I'm used to wiring audio systems also but this is a bit different haha)

    My List:

    (1) MPS Pommel Style 8
    (1) Screw on LED blade holder style 7
    (1) MHS "new style" heat sink V2
    (1) MHS Choke Style 2
    (1) 7" Fluted with guarded style switch hole
    (1) Machined button for Covertec Clip
    (1) 2.1mm Power Jack
    (1) 2.1mm plug adapter for smart charger
    (1) LED "Corbin Style" Show blade 3/4 OD (34")
    (1) Luxeon Rebel Star (Cyan)
    (1) BuckPuck 1000mA 6-wire
    (1) Li-Ion 3.7V 2600mAh PCB Rechargeable Battery Module
    (1) MWS Pre-Wired Nano Biscotte Sound Module (Light Meat)
    (1) gold thumb screw
    (1) 16mm anti vandal latching amber ring switch
    (1) 16mm anti vandal momentary blue dot switch
    (2) 20mA DynaOhm variable resistot
    (1) Collimator Lens 8.7 deg viewing angle

    Am I missing anything or does anything not match up? I may be trying to make more switch holes or one for power level indicator.

    Thanks!

  2. #2

    Default

    I will be using a 7.4V Li-Ion 2600 mAh instead of the 3.7V

  3. #3

    Default

    You need a 8-32 socket screw for the covertec
    You need a 1" blade, not 3/4"
    You need a 2nd dynaohm for the 2nd switch if you want both LEDs lit
    OR ditch the latching switch (not sure why you need it with a NB setup)
    You need a lens holder for your blade led lens
    You need an adhesive thermal pad for mounting the Blade led to heatsink

    There may be other things missing but those are the obvious ones I caught

    EDIT: You cannot use the 7.4v pack with the NB. Get the 3.7v 2600mah one. You posted while I was typing.

  4. #4

    Default

    Oh and you will need a pommel insert and retaining ring.

  5. #5

    Default

    The Nano Biscotte only uses a single momentary switch. You can still use the latching switch as a decorative switch or a kill switch (or both) if you like. You'll need to enlarge the switch hole in the main body section. AV switches don't fit in the guarded switch holes.

    Buckpucks aren't used with the Nano Biscotte. The Nano runs best with a 3.7v battery pack, and the Buckpuck needs a minimum of 5v to operate. Use a resistor for your main LED instead. You can find a link to the resistor calculator that I use in my signature.

    I don't see a pommel insert or MPS clip listed. I see the adapter for your smart charger, but I don't see the smart charger itself. If you already have a battery charger, be sure it is designed for Li-Ion batteries, and not NiMH.

    Grab a Rebel lens holder as well. http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Lu...lder-P536.aspx They're not 100% necessary with the new heatsinks, but it's a lot easier to assemble if you have one.

    You will need a socket head screw for mounting the Covertec clip, similar to this one: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/8-...head-P107.aspx You can get them at TCSS, or your local hardware store.

    Edit: I type slow. I got beat to the punch. GFJedi is right. You can't use the 7.4v pack with the NB. You'd need to use the Petit Crouton for that. He's also correct about the thermal pad and the 1" blade.
    Last edited by Silver Serpent; 06-27-2013 at 08:59 AM.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  6. #6

    Default

    Yea I totally missed the buckpuck in there. Ditch that for a 1ohms 2w resistor.

  7. #7

    Default

    Thank for all the help guys. Sorry for the noobness haha.

    So here is the updated list:
    (1) MPS Pommel style 8
    (1) Screw on LED blade holder style 17
    (1) MHS "new style heat sink V2
    (1)MHS choke style 2
    (1) 7" fluted w/ guarded style switch hole
    (1) 2.1mm power jack
    (1) 2.1mm plug adapter
    (1) 3.7-14.8V Li-Ion smart charger
    (1) machined button for Covertec Clip
    (1) 8-32 x 1/4" socket head
    (1) Luxeon Rebel Star (Cyan)
    (1) MWS Pre-Wired NB
    (1) Collimator lens 8.7 deg
    (1) Luxeon Rebel lens Holder
    (2) 20mA DynaOhm variable resistor
    (1) 1ohm 2w resistor
    (1) LED Corbin style 1" show blade (34")
    (1) Star thermal tape pad
    (2) 16mm anti vandal short momentary switches

    Better?

  8. #8

    Default

    You still need a pommel insert and MPS clip to hold it in place. Otherwise the pommel will just be open.

    Your second switch is going to be decorative? You only need one with that sound board.

    Oh, a speaker would be nice as well.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  9. #9

    Default

    So add insert and clip. add speaker. Yes the second switch is only for aesthetic purposes.

  10. #10
    Jedi Padawan Starwinder's Avatar
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    Default

    Welcome to the forum and the world of saber-building! Looks like you have a great first build planned out!
    The other guys have you covered with the essentials. Here's a thought though ... are you planning on using an activation box with your two switches? Since you want to use two AV switches (and only one for decorative purposes), Box 3, 18, or 11 might help give the saber some extra snazz. Totally up to you, but just thought i'd suggest it since i didn't see any boxes in your list.
    --------------------------Cadence--------------------------

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