Hello from Poland!

[KnightMoritz]

Hi everyone, just registered while I was reading all bunch of stuff about MHS lightsabers- really like it!

So, I come up with the design of my first own saber. Well, that's kind of it.

Untitled-1.jpg

It's hilt is 11.65 inch long (so it's quite small and that's the idea), and i'm thinking about 38-40" blade- strictly single handed, that idea is based on my medieval sword fighting technique. It's going to be red/orange, for dark jedi


List of parts (hmmm... i have completely no idea what i'm doing here... if I think wrong, please don't mind flaming me ):
(all MCS)
-MPS Pommel Style 8
-4inch 2x fluted 2xfemale connector
-Ribbed choke combo
-Led blade holder style 25
-2x 16mm Anti Vandal Latching Amber Ring Switch (1 for aux, 1 for blade)
-Petit Crouton
-2W Bass Speaker
-some sort of fitting 3.7v Li-Po battery custom cell
-8-32 x .3" black thumb screw
-5/8" D-Ring

Some ideas i'd like an advice- the LED. I was thinking about Seoul P4 LED & MHS Heatsink Module.
Still- no idea if these parts will fit such as small hilt, these are just my first steps. That's the base idea, I think it's gonna evolve to it's final form.
Also, i'm wondering where to put the switches, gonna make some post when i catch some idea.

And, sorry for my english

[Silver Serpent]

Welcome to the forums!

The Seoul P4 is a great choice. The Rebel LEDs are also a great choice. Sometimes the color you want is sold out for one type, and you can get it in the other. They both work fine.

You need at least one of your switches (the aux switch) to be momentary. They can both be momentary if you like. I would recommend using the short AV switches for more room.

Li-Po is not a good choice in lightsabers. They're not as durable as the Li-Ion we use. You should get a 7.4v Li-Ion battery pack. You will have to find a local source for them, since the U.S. postal service will not ship them overseas.

11.65 inches is a fairly average length for a saber.

Keep reading, and feel free to ask questions.

[KnightMoritz]

Hello, thanks for fast answer Damn, i'm so excited!

So, the Li-Ion it is. Fortunately it's easy to get them in my country.

I'm thinking why the aux should be momentary? Is it for better resistance? Or just launching the Petit Crouton requires momentary switch?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Welcome to the Forums!

The aux is momentary because it triggers effects that are temporary, and the length of the effect is decided by the user holding the button down.

[Silver Serpent]

The Petit Crouton requires that the aux switch be momentary. The main switch can be either momentary or latching, you just have to change the settings on the SD card.

It is that way because Erv (the guy who designed the board) designed the board that way.

Don't worry, you don't have to hold down the button to keep the saber on. It will turn on and stay on just fine, no matter which type of switch you use.

[KnightMoritz]

Roger that

Thank you for your kind help guys i'm gonna order the parts soon- do I need antyhing else (except ofcourse some cables and resistors) for it to work properly? I'd like to order it in one package, because of the shipping costs.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Well, from what I have seen of you planned design, you will need a 7.4V battery pack. Plus you need to figure out WHERE on the saber you are going to put these switches especially if you are going to use 2 16mm AV's. How will they look on a ribbed section or on the grip section, etc. Also, some type of chassis would be a good idea to prevent everything from bouncing around inside the hilt.

[KnightMoritz]

Yeah, the positioning of the switches is for consideration. I'm thinking of dremmeling some stock TCSS activation box ( http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Ac...le-3-P356.aspx for example) to fit it somewhere on the hilt, so there are no holes or slots below.

About the chassis- you've got the point, gotta think about it.

btw, I've made new design of my saber. I'm really close now to the design base i'm looking for.

cT4TaZN.jpg

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

The boxes are contoured on the underside, but if you put it on the ribbed section, you would still have the problem of grooves under the box. And it you put it on the bottom, are you sure you can fit the PC and a 7.4V pack in the ribbed section? If I recall correctly the ID of the ribbed section is only 1.15".

[KnightMoritz]

Hmmm, in the store there are no dimensions for this specific part. That's why i'm considering placement of the switches. Without Your help I would 'step on a mine' Maybe I'll make some custom fitted, single activation box on opposite sides of the ribbed section? Still don't know yet.

I'll get up with something soon

Edit:

Well, damn me, I think it's done. Below the effects of my work:

Untitled-1.jpg

You can see on the ribbed part my idea of switches placement. The idea is to dremel that placement nicely to fit the switches. That silver cover is going to be smooth ofcourse.

(I was thinking, maybe it would be okay to move this thread towards the A to Z build threads? I could peacefully continue posting down there.)

Edit 2:

I decided that I would not risk buying PC because of small amount of space, so Nano Biscotte it is. As I read so far, there's nothing I should change in switches.
Also, the hilt will be a bit weathered, so also the blade colour is going to be Amber. It's gonna be fine saber