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  1. #1

    Default My first build for a Revan Saber.

    Well here is my first build. Am I missing anything? In case I am what do I need?

    MWS Pre-Wired Nano Biscotte Sound Module

    MHS speaker and 2x AA battery holder x1

    JST Extension x2

    JST connectors

    Tenergy Li-Ion 14500 Rechargeable AA size 3.7V 800mAh x4

    Dual 24 gauge wire x4

    Pommel Powder Coating (PM31)

    Hilt style 1 with standard style switch hole

    Screw on LED blade holder style 18

    MHS ribbed extension

    MPS Pommel style 3 v1

    MPS Insert style 6

    16mm Anti Vandal Momentary Nickel Plated Switch

    8-32 x 1/4" Set screw

    Machine recessed AV switch hole
    Price: $10.00
    location: Same location for switch hole on Hilt style 1.

    Drill & Tap Hole (8-32)
    Price: $7.50
    location: Centered in main groove area.

    Blade Holder Powder Coating (B181)

    Extension Powder Coating (RIB3)

    Seoul P4 LED & MHS Heatsink Module

  2. #2
    Jedi Padawan Starwinder's Avatar
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    Looks pretty solid. If you're using Li-Ions in a 2x AA battery setup though, you'll want to get a dummy cell since the NB only needs the 3.7V of one battery to run.
    Also do you want a covertech wheel or D-ring for attaching to your belt? Completely optional of course.
    --------------------------Cadence--------------------------

  3. #3

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    MPS clip for holding your pommel insert in place.

    Also a li-ion charger, if you don't already have one.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  4. #4

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    Charger check!

    I just realized I need a buck puck. The P4 says 800mAh but the puck only has 1000 and 700. Which one should I get? And what is overdriving an led and why is that good or bad?
    Last edited by DarthBrute; 05-23-2013 at 10:49 AM.

  5. #5
    Youngling Jordandau's Avatar
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    Dec 2009
    Location
    North Hollywood, CA
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    You don't need a driver with the nano, just the correct resistor. It's far cheaper and smaller that way.

  6. #6

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    You actually can't run a buckpuck with the Nano (without some crazy wiring at least) because the Nano uses 3.7v and the puck needs a minimum of 5v. Resistors are the way to go with a Nano-based build.

    Overdriving an LED is when you run it at a higher current than it is rated for. For instance: running a 700mA LED at 1000mA, or running a 1000mA LED at 1200mA (or more). This will usually increase the brightness of the LED, at the expense of a shortened LED lifespan. You also get increased heat and a reduced runtime. Some LEDs are more tolerant than others. I know the Rebel reds used to be very intolerant of overdriving, and would actually dim or burn out if you tried.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

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