Agreed, though, ironically it's still simpler than my original plan of having 4 switches to change the color on the fly
Once I get the wiring diagram sorted I shall post it here and get it checked out
Agreed, though, ironically it's still simpler than my original plan of having 4 switches to change the color on the fly
Once I get the wiring diagram sorted I shall post it here and get it checked out
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All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
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2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law
"Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
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LOL
That is true
This design will have 2 buttons, either 2 av's or 1 av and a small momentary switch.
Thinking of putting the recharge port in the base of the hilt to hide it too.
It looks like you're trying to do color mixing with the CF6. The (+) wires you connected to the LED are not the correct ones. You'll need to flip the board over to find the correct location for color mixing pads. See page 34 of the CF6 manual for full instructions.
Also, you have the recharge port polarity reversed. http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...1391#post51391 has the correct diagram.
I'm not quite sure what you're doing with the accent LEDs on the AV switches. Some of those lines are a little to dark to follow.
We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.
http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!
Well, at least I can see this one...
OK, I would put the LED (+) of your main activation switch to the 3.3V pad, this way it lights up as soon as the kill key is pulled.
You could run the Aux LED (+) to one of the accent LED pads (1,2, etc), you can also use the associated GND pad (between 4 and 5) to ground those 2 LEDs. Otherwise not bad.
Of course the fun part will be watching you fit all that into the saber... I'd start practicing your soldering skills... A LOT.
TCSS MODERATOR
All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
1. Forum Guidelines
2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law
"Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com
I am wondering if the royal blue is as nice if not better than the single die led wanting to run the two in series and use white for flash cash the single is bright and awesome can I expect the same result using the tri rebel?
TCSS MODERATOR
All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
1. Forum Guidelines
2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law
"Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com
Sorry about that, I am asking if the royal blues on the tri rebel are as bright and pretty as the single di rebels?
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