Page 4 of 6 FirstFirst ... 2 3 4 5 6 LastLast
Results 31 to 40 of 58

Thread: Tri-Rebel Star

  1. #31

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Darth Scorn View Post
    Sorry about that, I am asking if the royal blues on the tri rebel are as bright and pretty as the single di rebels?
    Basically, yes, unless you get a bad die (which is rare). Note: wiring 2 together doesn't make it "twice as bright", yes it will be a little brighter, but it depends on the person viewing it. Eyesight will vary.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  2. #32

  3. #33

    Default

    Does the power to the LED of an illuminated switch need a resistor?

  4. #34

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Hasselhoof View Post
    Does the power to the LED of an illuminated switch need a resistor?
    Depending on the color, yes. Even colors that have a Vf of 3.3 *should* have a tiny resistor just so you don't accidentally blow the LED.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  5. #35

    Default

    This is more of a query really, can a single crystal focus run the 2 LEDs for a double bladed saber? Say run 2 Engin LZ4 10W Multi Color LEDs?

    I'm still playing around with the design for my saber

  6. #36

    Default

    Depending on which CF you are using, you have a maximum of 3A of available current, and the voltage of your pack (typically 7.4v) to work with. It's possible to run a pair of LEDEngins with that board, but you're not going to be driving all the dice at once.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  7. #37

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Hasselhoof View Post
    This is more of a query really, can a single crystal focus run the 2 LEDs for a double bladed saber? Say run 2 Engin LZ4 10W Multi Color LEDs?

    I'm still playing around with the design for my saber
    Like SS said, you won't be running them all. And the 3A isn't constant, it drops down to 2A after 30 seconds IIRC.
    10W doesn't necessarily mean "brighter" - and your saber was getting complicated enough and now you want to make it a double saber? I REALLY hope your skills match your design appetite.

    It's one thing to draw all this on paper, quite another to fit all of it into a saber AND get it to work properly.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  8. #38

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by forgetful jedi knight View Post
    And the 3A isn't constant, it drops down to 2A after 30 seconds IIRC.
    It's actually 3 minutes. You can have 2A indefinitely (or as long as your batteries last).

    For a bright double-bladed saber, I'd actually try to use the Tri-Rebels. LEDEngins are very power hungry. They're marvelous when driven properly, but it's usually a pain to get them up to that point without cooking your board.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  9. #39

    Default

    I know, my plans are somewhat fluid at the moment, I have more or less canned the idea of the PLI, doesn't suit the design I currently favor, and the idea of a double saber was more or less an idle speculation while playing with saberbuilder.

    It's now back to a CF 6.1 with an RGB LED and color options through flexbend, though I am thinking of getting the color xtender to improve the final color choices. So this is much more simple that my original plans, though the CF 6.1 is going to be fun to sort

  10. #40

    Default

    Well, I never ran mine past the 2A, because I like it to be consistent.

    I agree with SS though, stick to the Tri-Rebels. They will be easier for you to solder AND they are less power hungry and they are pretty bright for the power consumed.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •