Schematic approval

[hedgehog1]

Hedgehog, when your flicker technique gets widely known, I'm predicting a run on dimmable buckpucks.

We shall see. So far it seems to have generated very little interest. REAL saber smiths use a proper sound board

This technique creates a cool looking saber that is silent - a benefit for parents only, I think.

[hedgehog1]

Hey Mike:

If you are working at higher voltages, there is another style of 'buck' available to you:

A009-D-V-1400 BuckBlock

These run at 1000ma, 1400ma and 2100ma levels. Their voltage is too high to use with a 7.4volt pack, but for your design they would work.

You could run the GGGG or GGG at 1400ma. I don't think the LEDS would survive the 2100ma level, but 1400ma should be OK. I think.

[Ari-Jaq Xulden]

Ah, I see. You seem dead set on creating 14.8v where it is not required. Originally the pack you were looking at was only 1100 Mah. I guarantee that when you try that pack in an MHS, you will realize then that it really is much larger than the li-ion cells (18x20mm is not the same as 18mm diameter, and when your cramming this inside a hilt, real estate is valuable. Its all about whats the best for the space). The cells can also be broken down and arranged to fit in smaller areas, not to mention your plan to use a NB, you could easily make a 3.7 pack of 5200 Mah, as HH suggested, running all dice in // removing the need for the regulator.
The new pack (1400 Mah {also out of stock}) you linked will only fit in a 6 in DF. Maybe its me, but seems futile to argue your point with no proof. Incidentally I do get my cells elsewhere and build my own packs and tend to use the 3000 Mah ones, if you used the 3.7v solution with those particular cells, you would get around 1500Mah per die at a fraction of the cost, and reduced space. Have fun reinventing the wheel though at around $90 shipped.


-TANSTAAFL

[mikeclem]

Maybe its me, but seems futile to argue your point with no proof. Incidentally I do get my cells elsewhere and build my own packs and tend to use the 3000 Mah ones, if you used the 3.7v solution with those particular cells, you would get around 1500Mah per die at a fraction of the cost, and reduced space. Have fun reinventing the wheel though at around $90 shipped.-TANSTAAFL

How rude!

I'm not trying to argue any 'point'. I have no vested interest in trying to influence anyone to use one battery type over another. I am telling you what power source I am using - you are free of course to use whatever you feel is most appropriate and I would welcome the same courtesy. Again, I was very clear in my initial post that my intention was not to debate my choice of LiPo battery in this build. SS was kind enough to respect this point. HH may also not share my design choices but has been curious and very helpful and constructive in suggesting both alternatives and considerations in using a 14.8v supply.

Hey Mike:

If you are working at higher voltages, there is another style of 'buck' available to you:

A009-D-V-1400 BuckBlock

Thanks HH - that's a great find and from what I have been reading would safely overdrive an LEDEngin. I'll almost certainly get the 1400ma version.

BW,
Mike

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

@AJX: Maybe you should stop into "the Lounge" at the other place you and I hang out at, and we can discuss this. I'll be in most of the day.

@Mike: I know AJX, he means well, and he is trying to help you - though it may not come across that way. You aren't exactly the first who wants a "blindingly bright blade". As a matter of fact, if I had a dollar for every time I've heard it, I'd be typing this from my private island.

[Silver Serpent]

If someone comes on here and says, "I want to do X" and they are already aware of why it isn't standard practice, then I don't bother trying to change their mind. I'll try to persuade the uninformed, or at least enlighten them a bit. I'd hate for someone to get injured simply because they were unaware of the risks. For someone who is aware of the risks, but still wants to forge ahead, I'll let them do it their way.

LEDEngins are generally safe to overdrive. 1400mA isn't going to be an issue. Be sure to use something to aid with thermal transfer to the heatsink (thermal paste or adhesive thermal pads). Heat is the enemy of LEDs when you're overdriving them. I'm pretty sure the LEDEngin greens have been overdriven to 2A safely, but heat dissipation becomes a significant concern. You'd likely be looking for a more active cooling system (fans, finned heatsinks, peltier coolers, liquid cooling, etc) at those ranges.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

If someone comes on here and says, "I want to do X" and they are already aware of why it isn't standard practice, then I don't bother trying to change their mind. I'll try to persuade the uninformed, or at least enlighten them a bit. I'd hate for someone to get injured simply because they were unaware of the risks. For someone who is aware of the risks, but still wants to forge ahead, I'll let them do it their way.

Exactly.

[mikeclem]

LEDEngins are generally safe to overdrive. 1400mA isn't going to be an issue. Be sure to use something to aid with thermal transfer to the heatsink (thermal paste or adhesive thermal pads). Heat is the enemy of LEDs when you're overdriving them. I'm pretty sure the LEDEngin greens have been overdriven to 2A safely, but heat dissipation becomes a significant concern. You'd likely be looking for a more active cooling system (fans, finned heatsinks, peltier coolers, liquid cooling, etc) at those ranges.

Thanks SS - that's reassuring to know. I was intending to use a thermal adhesive pad to mount it to a custom finned heatsink.

You aren't exactly the first who wants a "blindingly bright blade". As a matter of fact, if I had a dollar for every time I've heard it, I'd be typing this from my private island.

LOL - I can quite imagine! Given that I'm returning to this after an absence I get the impression that the technology has now advanced to the point where this is achievable in a way it wasn't before. For this build I really want to push it to see what the max achievable is. If it is 'too bright' then I may drop it down a bit on the next project which I intend to be a more ambitious undertaking than this one which is as much a tech test as it is a build.

Mike

[slothfurnace]

Possibly too bright:



Absolutely too bright according to my wife:



Granted these are my custom string blades, the ROTJ Luke on a MR Yoda board, and the Obi on a Plecter CF-LS. My point in posting these is, these both use no more than 7.4 volts. I don't see a need for anything near 14V. Not to shoot anyone down, but just providing a gentle notion that 7.4 is perfectly adequate, in some if not all cases.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

And the Obi were Li-ion's...