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Thread: Would It fit?

  1. #1

    Default Would It fit?

    Hi everyone, after my refit project screwed itself (I think it was the soundborad) Im thinking about doing a completely new saber (stress on thinking) Im a little pressed for moneys so Im trying to go with a simpler design and I wanted to know If everything would fit aka the amount of cram fu Id need to apply ^^;

    Main Hilt style 2
    Blade holder 13
    Pommel 3 or 8
    MWS Pre-Wired Nano Biscotte Sound Module
    MHS speaker and 2x AA battery holder

    I realise this list wouldnt make up the entire sabers electronics (Im pretty sure I can figure the rest, Im really just concerned how hard thed be to fit into this saber ^^)
    Untitled.jpg

    thanks in advance ^^

  2. #2

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    So far, so good. It should be relatively easy to put that in there without much cram-fu.
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    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
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  3. #3

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    What battery solution are you planning to use? A pair of AA aren't going to power it, and a pair of 3.7 li-ion will be too much for the NB. Could go with a 4AAA speaker mount and use nimh rechargeable, or could better yet, a 16500 li-ion and use the chassis discs for it and the NB together. The latter route you could use the V4 speaker mount and it would all hook together neatly. A well positioned set screw in the hilt could hold the speaker mount in place so it all doesn't slide around (since that mount doesn't have the lip on it that catches at the base of the female threads). The only dealbuster there is you would be out $21 for the smart charger.

    I'm about to do something very similar (just pommel, main body, & emitter for space) but I'm using the fluted body and not sure how a set screw there would work since the section won't be as thick for tapping where the flutes are. I'm going to use the plastic chassis discs that hold a 3.7V 16500, but will use the V3 speaker holder because I'll need the lip on it to hold it in place. (I went V3 over V2 because it looks like a deeper mount for the bass speaker, and I can always cut that battery holder part off the back of it.)

    Use the inside view on the MHS builder to get an idea of your useable space. Figure that your speaker mount will take up around 1/2" past the back of the female threads on your main body. Then your batteries behind that and the distance from there to your switch will let you know how much room you have to play with.
    Last edited by Darth Nater; 02-17-2013 at 07:16 PM.

  4. #4

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    @Darth nater- i was planning on 1 3.7 volt and a dummy cell~i wanted to use the chassies disk solution but unfortunatlely you cant fit the NB with the header on it~ that and i cant solder up a thing for the battery to hook it up and TCSS unfortunatly cant ship the pre wired up batteries internationally anymore..

  5. #5

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    You are correct, a 14500 li-ion and dummy cell in that holder will do fine.

    As I understand it, you can take some hand files to the chassis discs and modify them so they'll accommodate the header as well. It's something to consider.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  6. #6

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    Really?I thought that the slot was too high to accomadate the header~And wouldnt the chassis for the NB not fit?Cause the header protrudes another 5mm (ish) i think~ I really dont want to have to cram fu the saber too much~

  7. #7

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    Most things can be modified, assuming you have enough time, patience, and a good set of needle files. There are other solutions than the chassis discs. I'm fond of the tubes that M&M Minis come in.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by Silver Serpent View Post
    Most things can be modified, assuming you have enough time, patience, and a good set of needle files. There are other solutions than the chassis discs. I'm fond of the tubes that M&M Minis come in.
    I like this idea...especially because the tubes only come FULL! I may be trying this in the near future....

    Genius as always, SS.
    "We don't have to win. We only have to fight." - Mace Windu (Shatterpoint)

  9. #9

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    There are always creative ways to improvise. My PC2.0 is housed inside a piece of a Tee-ball batting tee section that my kids had broken and I cut a piece of it off to make a chassis from. One wrap of masking tape on the outside to make it slide easier without catching the inside of the hilt and it fits perfectly inside a ribbed section. Even has a groove on the inside that serves as a shelf for the PC and a dab of hot glue on each end and its been absolutely perfect. My tiny momentary switches are held in place with a piece of a water bottle cap that I cut up and held in place with an existing screw inside the clamp style box.

  10. #10

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    Most ingenoius solutions O.o but (correct me if Im wrong) wouldnt it be eaiser to zip tie it to the battery pack?cause I guesstimated the sizez and if I were to lay everything side by side (no overlapping) it would leave around a half inch between the board and switch~is that enough to squish the wires in?(remember cram fu noob here ^^; )

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