wiring guide for luxeon tri rebel.

[Darth Vane]

i must have spent almost 3 hours of searching ( again) and found nothing.

i need a wiring diagram or a tutorial on how to wire the Luxeon tri rebel for FOC.

thanks in advance.

[Jordandau]

Well as always, it depends!

Do you want to run parallel or series on 2 dies? Do you want to just use one die for the main blade and 2 for the clash? What color, what board, what batteries?

[Darth Vane]

2 dies for main withbthe single being for clash. Petit crouton 2.0 and 14500

[Jordandau]

Again... It depends. You can choose to do either parallel or serial wiring. That would determine how you'd wire them. One has higher voltage requirements and uses less current, the other is the opposite. Some people say parallel works great for multi die LEDs. But I've read recently that people are wiring the rebels with serial wiring and it's doing great. Experiment a bit and see what you get. Take a read through the LEDengin tutorial post by fenderbender and there's TONs on info in it.

[Silver Serpent]

With the voltage and current requirements of the Rebel LEDs, and the built-in LED driver of the PC2.0, you can easily do either a series or a parallel wiring scheme. With power requirements not being a concern, there are a couple things to consider between the two styles of wiring.

Parallel wiring: When mixing colors, you can tweak each individual LED die to get the perfect shade you're looking for. HOWEVER, when dealing with LED dice that have a differing Vf, you will tend to get color separation on blade ignition. Some people don't like the color separation, others aren't bothered by it.

Series wiring: It's much more difficult to get a specific shade when mixing colors, though the color separation is not an issue. Both LEDs will turn on and off simultaneously.

Both methods are about the same amount of work when soldering. You'll just have to experiment and see what you're looking for. If you're not doing any color mixing on your main blade LEDs, then there is really no difference between the two. The PC2.0 will handle it just fine.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

There is also a basic wiring diagram for FoC in the PC2.0 manual, on page 23. For your battery set up, I would personally go with a series set up (depending on color, you didn't mention if you were using a GGW, BBW, or RGB Tri-Rebel for color mixing) so I'll assume it's a single color main blade like GGW. Wiring them in series will make the most out of your 14500 7.4v battery pack, as it will reduce the amount of current required, increasing battery run time. If you were to parallel the main blade led's, you'd have to draw about 2A out of those 14500's and you'd have about 20 minutes of run time when you factor in the extra 1A the FoC will draw while it's active. The FoC die being the white in this example, will be wired separately from those two, as shown in the image on page 23 of the manual, by using the power extender.

[Darth Vane]

There is also a basic wiring diagram for FoC in the PC2.0 manual, on page 23. For your battery set up, I would personally go with a series set up (depending on color, you didn't mention if you were using a GGW, BBW, or RGB Tri-Rebel for color mixing) so I'll assume it's a single color main blade like GGW. Wiring them in series will make the most out of your 14500 7.4v battery pack, as it will reduce the amount of current required, increasing battery run time. If you were to parallel the main blade led's, you'd have to draw about 2A out of those 14500's and you'd have about 20 minutes of run time when you factor in the extra 1A the FoC will draw while it's active. The FoC die being the white in this example, will be wired separately from those two, as shown in the image on page 23 of the manual, by using the power extender.

Thank you! i looked at the users manual for the PC 2.0 and it looks like wiring will be a sinch. i was scared about having to bridge the LED Dies but all i am looking for is a bright red blade with white for the FOC. but i need a refresher in the diffrence between series and parallel :/. plus i got the battery wrong. i will be using the 7.4v Li-ion 2600mAh 18650 Battery Pack. as i am looking for a good long run time. also wich of the new heat sinks would i want to use for a 10W RGBW?

[Jay-gon Jinn]

You will only have to bridge the led dies if you put them in a series connection, where the positive from the first led goes to the positive of the board output, then the negative for that led will go to the positive of the next led, then it's negative will go to the board's negative output. Parallel connections will share the positive and negatives outputs from the board. A series connection on your main blade will require double the voltage, but will retain the current requirements of a single led. The Parallel style connection will retain the voltage requirement of a single led, but double the current requirement. Make sense? I'd personally go with the series connection for the two red led's, since that will increase the battery's run time with the lower current requirement. I have done a RRW Tri-Rebel set up myself, but I did not take pictures of the wiring when I did it. I can get some if you need them, though.

[Darth Vane]

it kind of makes sense to me. but I'm more of a hands on learner. if I can see how it's done I have a better way of learning how it's supposed to be done. however I have chosen to go with a 10W RGBW Led. as I'm only going to be using the red dye and the White die. however I would like to see how you wired up the Tri-Rebel. I need to order a new blade holder. which heatsink style would be best with the 10W？ heat sink version 2 or Version3？

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

it kind of makes sense to me. but I'm more of a hands on learner. if I can see how it's done I have a better way of learning how it's supposed to be done. however I have chosen to go with a 10W RGBW Led. as I'm only going to be using the red dye and the White die. however I would like to see how you wired up the Tri-Rebel. I need to order a new blade holder. which heatsink style would be best with the 10W？ heat sink version 2 or Version3？

For a 10W LEDEngin, the version 2 would work fine. As far as wiring LED's, I'll just leave this here:

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e....for-noobs