Lessons in Cram-Fu...?

[shmoetech]

nice.....if you get a box iyt should be prethreaded for swiches, and no need for nut

[DarthGM]

nice.....if you get a box iyt should be prethreaded for swiches, and no need for nut

I wasn't going to use a box, because the other hilt doesn't have one. I'm trying to mirror the two hilts as best I can. I was going to use a switch and a long bezel.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Okay, that brings upa GREAT follow-up question.

How the heck do you use the nut that comes with the AV switch? How are you able to get it threaded and spin into position when it's several inches deep in a hilt? I can't figure that out.

Well, since your "Fu" is relatively weak... you should also get a small (thin bezel) and a pair of good, long needle nose pliers. You will pass your wires through the nut, and then the small bezel - inverted to it'll rest on the inside of the saber, and then through the hole, and then through big bezel (flat side up) and then when you place your wired switch into the hole, rotate so that the switch is sitting on the bottom, place small bezel into place and then maneuver nut into place, and tighten with needle nose pliers.

Also having saber partially disassembled to make access easier might be a good idea.

[Xevious]

you should also get a small (thin bezel) and a pair of good, long needle nose pliers. You will pass your wires through the nut, and then the small bezel - inverted to it'll rest on the inside of the saber, and then through the hole, and then through big bezel (flat side up) and then when you place your wired switch into the hole, rotate so that the switch is sitting on the bottom, place small bezel into place and then maneuver nut into place, and tighten with needle nose pliers.

I tried that myself, but found that there simply wasn't quite enough threading sticking through the bezel to make a solid connection. Had to just put the nut against the inner wall of the hilt, but it worked-out fine.

[DarthGM]

I tried that myself, but found that there simply wasn't quite enough threading sticking through the bezel to make a solid connection. Had to just put the nut against the inner wall of the hilt, but it worked-out fine.

Aright, I'll give that a go then!

Thanks!

BTW, another person said I should use a standard AV switch instead of a short AV switch, but for the life of me I can't figure out why. Any different wiring considerations between a long and short AV swtich (blue ring)?

[shmoetech]

all u need is the short for this config.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Aright, I'll give that a go then!

Thanks!

BTW, another person said I should use a standard AV switch instead of a short AV switch, but for the life of me I can't figure out why. Any different wiring considerations between a long and short AV swtich (blue ring)?

Yes you should be using a standard AV switch, since you are NOT using a sound board, you would like the saber to stay on when you press the button. The long latching will be ideal (and what I thought you were using) since the switch you are trying to match looked like it had the shiny finish. The short latching ones have the brushed chrome finish, also having the long switch makes my earlier "Fu" advice very reasonable, unlike what other were suggesting.

A momentary won't work for you unless you want to manually keep the button pressed down all the time. Identifying whether or not your other switch is long would be extremely helpful here.

But hey, what do I know.

[DarthGM]

Looking inside the other hilt (the one with sound), it looks like it's using a short AV switch. It's only coming in about half way thought the hilt, and I think I only see 4 wire-up points. The regular long switch I have comes down so far the points would touch the other side of the hilt.

Here's a question; if I use the long AV switch (with a large bezel), can I clip off the connections on the bottom I'm not using? All one ones on the "right" side of the standard wiring diagram (NC2, NO2, and C2)?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Looking inside the other hilt (the one with sound), it looks like it's using a short AV switch. It's only coming in about half way thought the hilt, and I think I only see 4 wire-up points. The regular long switch I have comes down so far the points would touch the other side of the hilt.

Here's a question; if I use the long AV switch (with a large bezel), can I clip off the connections on the bottom I'm not using? All one ones on the "right" side of the standard wiring diagram (NC2, NO2, and C2)?

Technically, you probably could, but I don't see the need to. It doesn't achieve anything, and you wouldn't have the lugs there is you ever decided to re-use that switch. If you're concerned about the unused lugs, you can use little pieces of heat shrink to insulate them, though you should have just enough room. Remember to heat shrink all of the connections.