First saber build

[Delta_Petra]

Hello everyone,

Thanks for taking a look at my build list and providing me with some insight into this project. I do have some soldering experience thanks to working on guitars, but I am a complete noob to this build process and have some questions before going into my parts list.

1. Where should I place a blade retention screw hole on the MHS #18 emitter? (I am guessing just above the fattest part.)
2. What type and size(length/width) retention screw should I use? (I don't want the screw to show on the outside.)
3. What blade should I use? (I see that the 40" blade pieces are available, but that seems rather long and I do not have appropriate cutting tools. I have thought about purchasing the 36" or 32" blades from UltraSabers.)

Okay, so here is the list. Wow this is long.

*MHS style #18 blade holder
- Powder coating B182 in flat black
- MHS new style heat sink V2
- Drill and tap hole
- Appropriate size screw (once I get some advice from question above)

*MHS style #3 hilt with standard hole
- Powder coating SH32 in flat black
- Activation box style #10
- Box 10 mounting holes service
- 4-40 button head screw

*MHS style #1 double ended male adapter
- Powder coating DME1 in Metallic Copper

*MHS 1.2" double ended female adapter

*MPS style #8 pommel
- MPS style #6 insert
- MPS Clip

*Rebel Star LED & MHS heatsink module (royal blue)

*MWS Pre-Wired Petit Crouton Sound Module V2.0
- Light Meat

*MHS Speaker & 2xAA battery holder
- Trustfire Protected 3.7V 900mAh 14500 Lithium Battery (2-pack) x 2 for recharging a set while using.
- Trustfire All-In-One Charger

*16mm Anti Vandal Momentary Blue Ring Switch

*Red LED Indicator

*JST Connectors x 2 (For connecting Anti Vandal switch and LED Indicator light to Petit Crouton)

Saber 6.jpg

How does that all sound? I am looking for least complicated at the moment until I get the hang of this.
Thanks for your help.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

First off, Welcome to the forums!

To answer your questions pretty quickly:
If you have Tim do the set screw for you, he knows where to place it. If you don't want it to stick out, try using the 8-32 - 1/8" set screw. You could ask Tim to modify the blade for you to a length that you would like. If he can't, or is too busy, instead of the other alternative you mentioned, you could also join the FX-Sabers forums and you could easily find what you seek there. As far as the blade length, it depends on your height.

As for your shopping list, it looks like you missed an auxiliary switch (good for the extra sound effects) And you don't need the extra MHS heatsink. The module comes with one.

As for your design, you'll find that the depth of LED heatsink won't really allow you to put the switch box where you have it., you may want to put the extension towards the emitter end of the hilt, the pommel can screw into the bottom of the main body piece.

I think that covers things for the moment. Good Luck.

[MandoJoe]

1. If it were me, I'd place it in the widest band, but that's just me.
2. This set screw won't show on the outside. It'll be in the blade holder itself. http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/8-...crew-P108.aspx
3. I've got a 40" thick walled white poly-c blade, and it is indeed long. I much prefer my 36" thin walled poly-c blade with a quad film wrap. It's lighter, and prettier.

Also, you won't need the MHS new style heat sink V2. Your Rebel Star/heat sink module is pre-assembled and serves that purpose. Also, Tim's pre-wired service is fabulous for us new guys. Excellent first choice. The JST connectors are very handy to have. And I think you'll need a second switch, for the alt button.

Other than that, looks good to me. But I'm still a new guy too, so I might be wrong.

EDIT: Dang it! FJK beat me to it by eight minutes!

[Delta_Petra]

Thanks for the help.

So I took out the extra heat sink.

Replaced the red LED Indicator with an Anti Vandal Momentary orange dot switch for auxillary sounds. (I completely forgot about that.)

Replaced the style #10 box with a style #18 activation box and appropriate services. Unless there is an activation box that holds 2 AV switches and 1 accent LED?

Added 8-32x1/8" set screw

Here is the updated picture to accommodate room for the switches.

Saber 7.jpg

Now I just have to decide whether I will save up all the money and purchase all at once, or split purchase the buy the body parts to tide me over while I save for the inner goodies.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Good. You will probably want to save up for everything, because it's not too much fun making the sounds manually.

The indicator LED isn't REALLY necessary, because the LEDs on the switches will light up, if they are wired properly.

[MandoJoe]

And they're not terribly difficult to wire. And they're SO PRETTY!

[Darth Obi Don]

Find a friend that has a hacksaw and you can cut any length blade you want,or buy one for your tool kit,they're cheaper than saber parts and so useful for all sorts of projects.

[Delta_Petra]

I have one more question... what kind of parts would I need to someday change the battery system to an in-hilt recharger? I know I would need a different battery pack, with 2.1mm recharge jack and smartcharger, but where would the battery pack hook up to the Petit Crouton and where would the recharge jack attach?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

I have one more question... what kind of parts would I need to someday change the battery system to an in-hilt recharger? I know I would need a different battery pack, with 2.1mm recharge jack and smartcharger, but where would the battery pack hook up to the Petit Crouton and where would the recharge jack attach?

2 of the wires would go to the power + and -. and the other two would go to the battery pack. This is basically covered in the Petit Crouton manual. When you get to that stage, we'll be here to help you out. Also you would have to figure out where on the hilt you would want to port to be.