Back for round 2 (saber 5, design 3)

[The Yin]

(Warning: This may be a long post)

So here I am, one year after finishing my first sabers, (which I have yet to post on the forum), with a new design.

Two (ok, maybe 3) questions for today.
The first is concerning sound options. I don't have sound in any of my first sabers because I was making four at one time, I did't want to put in a $130 sound board. However, when I saw there is a new sound option (Nano Biscotte), I started on making a new saber design. BUT, I was just reading up on the differences between the Nano Biscotte and Petit Crouton. The difference in features is well reflected in the price.
Here is my question to those that have worked with sound: Should I just pay the money for the Petit Crouton and have all the bells and whistles, or can I still get a good deal of saber-swing, blade-clashing action out of the Nano Biscotte?

I may, at some time in the future install a Nano Biscotte in my first sabers, regardless of the which sound board I choose for the new saber.


The Second is concerning a 'Fake' crystal chamber.
I want to have some light emitting from slots cut in the choke. I'm thinking of just using 2 LEDs, one at each end of the choke (or 2 at one end). I'm just not sure about mounting (chassis disc?).
Any Ideas?


The Third, and final question is: Color (Colour)?
I've got ideas, but cant really decide.
Comments, concerns, criticism, LOLs?

Here's what I've got in mind.
next saber.jpg

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

OK, I'll jump in on this one...

1. Regarding sound boards, Obviously the PC is a better board. My first question to you is: How much experience do you have soldering and doing fine electronics work? If you don't, you may want to stick with the NB as a "starter board" and work your way up. If you really do have some experience, a PC is a good board, and you should be very happy with it.

2. You can mount a loose 3 or 5 mm LED to a disk at the base of the choke section and you should be good. if you do just one, you may be able to use the 3.3V pad on the NB to power it. make sure the wires to and from the LED (and any required resistor are decently insulated (and something for rigidity wouldn't be a bad idea either, unless you use a tiny standoff attached to a metal chassis disk.

3. Color is a "It's really up to you" kind of thing. designs 2 and 3 look Sithy and scream red, the top one could be blue or green. Welcome to the fun of saber designing. When you do the designing, make sure you account for all the space for the electronics you want to cram into it.

[The Yin]

Cool, thanks for the input.

I've got a lot of soldering exp, even before the saber days. So that shouldn't be a problem. PC it is!


I'll get some of the parts and test out LED mounting idea's. I may also want to put my speaker in that area, we'll see what works out.

Yes, I agree about the 'sith' look. I really want to have some claws, but I may need a different look or color for them. I'm not ready for the darkside yet.

Thanks,
The Yin

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Planning internals isn't easy. All spaces look larger than they really are

[The Yin]

Since you mentioned that, now I feel i should double check.
I plan to use one '4in fluted connector' and one' ribbed extension v-grooved' for the main body.
Should this be enough for the internals (speaker/batteries/PC board/switches/connectors)?
Could i get away with a '3in fluted connector'?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Since you mentioned that, now I feel i should double check.
I plan to use one '4in fluted connector' and one' ribbed extension v-grooved' for the main body.
Should this be enough for the internals (speaker/batteries/PC board/switches/connectors)?
Could i get away with a '3in fluted connector'?

Even with the 4", it would be tight. Remember you lose 1" (1/2" on each end) for the threading. For 3", I will say... NO!

Also something for you to think about is what type of switches are you using and where exactly you plan on putting them, and how that will look on the part you are putting the switch onto.

[The Yin]

So, I'm still working on this saber. Forever almost done. Just wanted to share the newest (almost, not really) finished part.
The Claws!

I spent a lot of time designing these and making paper cut outs to get the shape and size right. Then I had to find a place that did water jet cutting, because I wanted to make them out of stainless steel, and there was no way I would be cutting 3/8 inch steel with a Dremel tool.

I have yet to finalize how I'll mount them, So they are just taped on in the pictures. Check it out.
IMAG0457.jpg IMAG0454.jpg
IMAG0455.jpg IMAG0456.jpg

[Kyaryo Ysoyav]

Wow. Great work! Those are by far the best claws (IMO) that I have seen. They are unique and stick up enough to grab attention, but not so far that (assuming lightsabers were real...or just that you didn't want to damage the claws) you have to worry about them in combat. Awesome!!

[TrypWyr]

Very nice claws! Being steel, do they add a lot of weight to the emitter?

And for my $0.02 of the NB: I highly recommend it for a first (with sound) build. Unless you really want Flash on Clash and/or aux sounds (blasters, lockup), the NB will do everything you want while being easier to wire up and MUCH easier cram into a hilt than a PC.

Now if only Erv would make a "Mini Biscotte" with support for an Aux switch? Man, I would be in heaven!

[The Yin]

do they add a lot of weight to the emitter?

They do add some weight, but the hilt is long and I have a PC and speaker and 18650 pack in it at the opposite end, so it seems (so far), to balance out well.

I do plan on polishing them up some, and them burning the ends to get that blue look.