First Build Assembly Questions

[IvPalmer]

Greetings again!

Sorry, I've been kinda flooding the forums with question I know

But I have yet another I'd like to ask you guys. Today I finally got to test my first build at the laboratory and, hooray, it works!

Some pictures of the assembly:

photo 1.jpg

photo 2.jpg

I have no batteries yet, so I used a CC Power Source, tried a voltage of 5V.

Here's a video of the assembly:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iBb83...ature=youtu.be

Here's the Scheme I'm using:

Scheme.jpg

So, questions:

1. My current problem is, as you may have noticed, i'm using two momentary switches, the one for Aux is ok, but the one for activation only turns the saber off when i hold it, and well i don't want that. Have I made a big mistake in ordering two momentary switches? Is there any way out besides buying a non-momentary one? I have no time to order one (I have to finish this until the end of the month), so i'd have to find it around my city, but I already ordered the hilt with two holes, so that's another problem I guess.

2. Even with a non-momentary activation switch, with batteries on, the board will never be trully off, right? When I press the activation switch, it doesn't turn everything off, does it? If i don't have a kill-switch and make in-hilt recharging, I'd have to remove batteries everytime i stop using?

3. If you pay attention to the video, my aux button keeps blinking, is that normal? How do I make it stop?


Thanks in advance again guys, you all have been extremely helpfull!

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Greetings again!

Sorry, I've been kinda flooding the forums with question I know

But I have yet another I'd like to ask you guys. Today I finally got to test my first build at the laboratory and, hooray, it works!

Some pictures of the assembly:

photo 1.jpg

photo 2.jpg

I have no batteries yet, so I used a CC Power Source, tried a voltage of 5V.

Here's a video of the assembly:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iBb83...ature=youtu.be

Here's the Scheme I'm using:

Scheme.jpg

So, questions:

1. My current problem is, as you may have noticed, i'm using two momentary switches, the one for Aux is ok, but the one for activation only turns the saber off when i hold it, and well i don't want that. Have I made a big mistake in ordering two momentary switches? Is there any way out besides buying a non-momentary one? I have no time to order one (I have to finish this until the end of the month), so i'd have to find it around my city, but I already ordered the hilt with two holes, so that's another problem I guess.

2. Even with a non-momentary activation switch, with batteries on, the board will never be trully off, right? When I press the activation switch, it doesn't turn everything off, does it? If i don't have a kill-switch and make in-hilt recharging, I'd have to remove batteries everytime i stop using?

3. If you pay attention to the video, my aux button keeps blinking, is that normal? How do I make it stop?


Thanks in advance again guys, you all have been extremely helpfull!

OK, I'm admittedly a bit tired so I'll make this quick:

1. You may need to change the setting on the SD card for the momentary switch -> switch=2. That's probably your problem. Also if you are going to try this, set the bench supply for 7.4V which is what your battery pack is, just make sure you have the appropriate resistors in place first for the various LED's.

2. The batteries would last quite a while, but if you are going to not use it for a month or so, I would remove the batteries if you do not use a recharge port.

3. The way you have it wired, yes it is normal. Depend on what you want to do, it depending on what you need to do to fix it.

[IvPalmer]

So I can use the momentary switch to light the saber on and off without having to hold it? Geez that's a relief!

I've got one 82ohm 1/4w resistor for each switch, is that ok? Also, the main LED doesn't need a resistor right?

Guess i'll buy the jacks tomorrow and go for a recharge port, just thinking about opening the hilt to remove the batteries makes my head hurt.

What I want is both switches to be continually lit while the saber is on, and when i press the activation one, both would go off. Is that possible?


Thanks a lot mate

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

The resistors should work for now. I'll check the math when I'm awake. What you want LED wise in possible, but you don't have main switch LED wired at all, the wiring diagram will need adjusting, now that I know what you want to do.

[Silver Serpent]

You'll need to adjust your LEDS.TXT file on the SD card to set the switch LED behavior. Page 24 of the PC2.0 manual has instructions on this.

Your resistors are fine. I calculated a 68ohm resistor, but a little extra won't hurt, since those switch LEDs are plenty bright. I'd just put the second switch LED on the second accent LED pad. Remember that they have a common ground. Later on, you may decide you want one LED on constant, while the other blinks.

[IvPalmer]

My second switch LED is not wired because the pre wired Petit Crouton didn't came with both accent LED Pads wired. I was afraid to screw it up, it's a very tight space between those Pads.

By extra resistor you mean two resistors for each switch? The Main LED (Rebel Star) doesn't need a resistor right?

So basically only thing i need to do is wire up the second switch to the LED Pad and common ground, set the "switch" setting to "2", as it will make the momentary switch work, and put a value of "0" on the delay setting, like:
...
random=0
s00=00
d00=00
...

Anything else?

Thanks a lot guys

[Silver Serpent]

No, just one resistor for each switch LED. Main LED doesn't need a resistor. By extra I meant that the 86ohm you have is a little more than the 68ohm I calculated. It'll work just fine (as I saw in your video).

random=0
s00=11
d00=65535

That should have both LED pads on continuously while the saber is on.

If you have a fine tip on your soldering iron and a steady hand, you should be able to get the second pad soldered. It'd be easier to attach the second ground wire to the first ground wire, instead of trying to have two wires attached to the same ground pad.

[IvPalmer]

Great! thanks! Will try that today!

You guys usually use any kind of PVC case to protect all the eletronics? I'm thinking on making one, so stuff doesn't get loose inside the hilt

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Ok, now that I'm awake... instead of wiring the main switch LED to the second pad, you can wire it to the 3.3V pad (that's what it is there for), and it may be easier for you to do. This way, the main switch will light up when you pull the kill key. Otherwise, you will have to do some tight soldering ahead of you.

You can do a PVC chassis, though most of us use some type of chassis disk system to keep everything secure. It varies a little depending on the builder.

[IvPalmer]

Hmmm didn't knew that, I'll try to find some thin tip soldering iron and see if i can wire up the other LED Pad, if it gets too hard i'll wire the 3.3 one!

Thanks guys!