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Thread: First Build Assembly Questions

  1. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by forgetful jedi knight View Post
    OK, So we apparently have just learned the little lesson of designing a hilt WITH the electronics in mind,

    Now, to answer your question, your best bet it to place the PC in the front grenade section, and rig some kind of chassis to secure it to. The question will then become will all the other wires still be long enough to reach (like the speaker and battery wires). Normally if you do a 14xxx side by side pack (and a recharge port), generally the board can be secured to the top. If you look up my "Traveller" build, I believe one of the pics shows what it looks like mounted to a disk and rod chassis.
    I tried your idea yesterday and made a PVC chassis that fits perfectly into the front grenade section, but I ran into a problem. When I have everything wired, the switches are on the hilt section, so when I put the parts together I have to rotate either the hilt or the grenade and it twists the wires a lot. Also, the PC gets really hot in there, is it safe to have her in this section, near the LED?

  2. #22

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    It all comes down to planning, which includes planning the assembly installation. From what I saw, how I would attack this is put the switches in first, then the battery pack and speaker. Once that is done, put the PC in the grenade section then screw it to the main body piece, you will have to hold the PC chassis still (using tweezers or small pliers) while screwing the two pieces together, so there isn't as much twist, once those two sections are done, put the main LED assembly in place and screw on the blade holder, then the pommel and test it out.

    Heat is sometimes an issue, but it all goes back to the design, you picked a removable battery pack holder and speaker comb, so you leave yourself little option. You may want to lower the output to the main LED (super bright = super hot) if it is really concerning, plus getting the PC as close as you can to the bottom of the grenade section (toward the switches) would be also a bit helpful.

    A very extreme solution is to maybe drill a ring of small holes where the grooves intersect in one "ring" near where the heatsink is.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  3. #23

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    Quote Originally Posted by forgetful jedi knight View Post
    It all comes down to planning, which includes planning the assembly installation. From what I saw, how I would attack this is put the switches in first, then the battery pack and speaker. Once that is done, put the PC in the grenade section then screw it to the main body piece, you will have to hold the PC chassis still (using tweezers or small pliers) while screwing the two pieces together, so there isn't as much twist, once those two sections are done, put the main LED assembly in place and screw on the blade holder, then the pommel and test it out.

    Heat is sometimes an issue, but it all goes back to the design, you picked a removable battery pack holder and speaker comb, so you leave yourself little option. You may want to lower the output to the main LED (super bright = super hot) if it is really concerning, plus getting the PC as close as you can to the bottom of the grenade section (toward the switches) would be also a bit helpful.

    A very extreme solution is to maybe drill a ring of small holes where the grooves intersect in one "ring" near where the heatsink is.
    Hmmm this might work! I'll have to sand down the chassis a little bit though, cause he's really tight now.

    I'm indeed trying to place the PC as close to the switches as possible, also because the LED wire is really long, but i'll see how it goes and if it gets too hot I'll consider the holes! While a good idea, this battery pack - speaker combo takes a lot of space! Next time i'll buy them separately.

    Thanks man

  4. #24

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    Just passing by to say it's almost done!

    IMG_6543.jpg

    I finally got everything inside the hilt, had to cut more than half of all the wires though..

    Just need to paint and put everything back inside now (the yellow tapes are the parts i wont paint)

    Also, i have to swing it pretty hard for any noise to come out, i dont know if it's because of where the PC is located (grenade section) or because the sensitivity parameter is too low, it's currently on 55. Should I increase it?

    Thanks for all the help so far guys!

  5. #25

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    Quote Originally Posted by IvPalmer View Post
    Just passing by to say it's almost done!

    IMG_6543.jpg

    I finally got everything inside the hilt, had to cut more than half of all the wires though..

    Just need to paint and put everything back inside now (the yellow tapes are the parts i wont paint)

    Also, i have to swing it pretty hard for any noise to come out, i dont know if it's because of where the PC is located (grenade section) or because the sensitivity parameter is too low, it's currently on 55. Should I increase it?

    Thanks for all the help so far guys!
    Yes, you will have to increase the sensitivity, since you have the board so far up in the hilt. Try around 70-75.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

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