Lightsaber Help on some questions, LONG PARTS LIST

[FireBlaze97]

Ok so this is what i have for my up and coming lightsaber build, i have found many diagrams for the PC and wiring it up but some things still leave me guessing, like the led it is a amber led by rebel star, what resistor should i use. well here is my parts list with the extras added.



Screw on LED blade holder style 13

MHS "new style" Heat Sink

Pommel style 3

Blade Holder Powder Coating (Copper Metallic) (B132)

Pommel Powder Coating (Copper Metallic) (PO31)

Rebel Star LED & MHS Heatsink Module
Luxeon Rebel Star (Amber)

16mm Anti Vandal Latching Amber Ring Switch

82ohm 1/8 watt (av switch ) -Correction

Black momentary switch

Activation box style 2

2.1mm Power Jack

Kill plug style 4

Wires and heat shrink

Petit Crouton Sound Module V2.0
Light Meat

7.4v Li-ion 1400mAh 18500 Battery Pack

3.7V-14.8V Li-Ion Smart charger

2.1mm plug adapter for smart charger

MHS speaker mount V2

Premium Speaker

Drill & Tap Hole (8-32)

location: on blade holder 9 place the hole somewhere between the cut outs or if you think below then do that, use your best judgment.

Drill & Tap Hole (8-32)

location: On Blade holder style 13 place the hole in the middle, use your best judgment on this.

MPS Clip

MPS insert style 12

JST connectors

Super Lube Synthetic Grease

8-32 x 1/2" thumb screw
8-32 x 3/8" Brass button head screw
8-32 x 1/2" button head screw
8-32 x 3/8" Stainless Steel thumb screw
(im ordering a few different screws to find what one i like)

D-ring belt mount

1" Hilt safety plug (Trans White)

Acrylic Chassis Disc for PC 2.0 and 18500/18650 pack (Clear)

4" Deep fluted double female threaded connector

Double male with slots

Extension Powder Coating (Copper Metallic) (DME2)

MPS Pommel style 8
Screw on LED blade holder style 9

(im getting an extra pommel and BH so that i can switch around the parts when i feel for it)

Pommel Powder Coating (Copper Metallic) (PM81)

Blade Holder Powder Coating (Copper Metallic) (BH91)

4" Double female threaded connector

Box 2,3,5,6 Mounting holes service

location: in the middle of the 4 inch double female threaded connector. this item will be media blasted as well

Media blasting

Media blasting: [1. Gray areas only (This item will also be getting a powder coating style 1) Screw on LED blade holder style 13 - Im guessing you'd media blast then powder coat .] [2. Activation box style (2)] [3. 4" Double female threaded connector] [4. 4" Deep fluted double female threaded connector] [5. mps insert style 12]

(No resistor needed for Amber led)- fix

Well this is a HUGE parts list if anyone is nice enough to go through this PLEASE give me some advice this will be my first ever sound saber, iv been planning this for some time to make my own saber and this is it.


Question: will the 4.7ohm 10w resistor work for the rebel star amber led?
Question: will the 220ohm 1/4w resistor work for the 16mm Anti Vandal Latching Amber Ring Switch?
Question: will I be able to media blast and powder coat the Screw on LED blade holder style 13? I have in my cart the style 1 powder coating and the media blasting.
Question: does this saber look good?
Question: will the Acrylic Chassis Disc for PC 2.0 and 18500/18650 pack (Clear) keep the battery resistors and anything else inside from rattling, i ask because this saber will be put through some dueling in the future.

-Im not getting a blade because I already have one (or will have one from vaders vault)
- added the rest of the chassis to my cart put a speaker part inside so i can try to mount the speaker.

Thanks,
FireBlaze97

[clahey83]

- you will not need a resistor for your main LED, the petit crouton will regulate the voltage and current going to it.
- the resistor for the AV LED should be 82ohm 1/8 watt if you plan on running it from one of the accent LED outputs on the petit crouton (those pads are 3.3V) if you want to run it from your batteries (it will light up as soon as you pull the kill plug) then it will need to be 270ohm 1/8 watt
- i have never tried media blasting and powder coating. thats a question one of the other people on here might be able to answer. worst case scenario send Tim (the store owner) an email and ask him before ordering.
- the parts look good but we dont know what order you are putting them together in. all that matters is that YOU like it.
- the acrylic disks should do a good job but you will need the rest of the parts to use them. 4/40 all thread, 4/40 hex nuts, and if you want 3/16 OD spacers. if you dont get these you wont be able to use your acrylic disks.

[TrypWyr]

- the resistor for the AV LED should be 82ohm 1/8 watt if you plan on running it from one of the accent LED outputs on the petit crouton (those pads are 3.3V) if you want to run it from your batteries (it will light up as soon as you pull the kill plug) then it will need to be 270ohm 1/8 watt

Keep in mind, the store doesn't appear to sell 82 and 270 ohm resistors in 1/8 watt, but rather 1/4 watt. Remember, you can always use a larger wattage resistor, it will just be physically bigger. (Substantially bigger, in some cases...)

I plugged these parts into the MHS Builder, pretty nice. Are you planning on having the Fluted section at the bottom of the hilt? This can make the top half look a little skinny, IMO. My personal build in progress uses similar parts and has the fluted section in the middle (well, I'm actually using the grooved, not fluted, but very similar part), with the switch section at the bottom of the hilt near the pommel (reverse hold). Have you checked out the trim rings? Amazing little things and really provide a break to the straight outer diameter edges on a hilt.

Other quick opinions:
BH9: great blade holder, lends itself wonderfully to blade plugs. I have a Sanjuro crystal emitter plug in mine and it looks awesome. Almost a crystal chamber on its own!
Pommel style 3: nothing better than a spike for a pommel to capture that Sithy feeling.

Anyway, good luck with the build, looks like fun!

[FireBlaze97]

- you will not need a resistor for your main LED, the petit crouton will regulate the voltage and current going to it.
- the resistor for the AV LED should be 82ohm 1/8 watt if you plan on running it from one of the accent LED outputs on the petit crouton (those pads are 3.3V) if you want to run it from your batteries (it will light up as soon as you pull the kill plug) then it will need to be 270ohm 1/8 watt
- i have never tried media blasting and powder coating. thats a question one of the other people on here might be able to answer. worst case scenario send Tim (the store owner) an email and ask him before ordering.
- the parts look good but we dont know what order you are putting them together in. all that matters is that YOU like it.
- the acrylic disks should do a good job but you will need the rest of the parts to use them. 4/40 all thread, 4/40 hex nuts, and if you want 3/16 OD spacers. if you dont get these you wont be able to use your acrylic disks.

I will be using the led hooked up to the battery so i have a crystal chamber just gotta find an orange led. So when i get the chassis can i just slide it in and out? I really have no intention for it to be viewed, its just for the internals so they don't wiggle around.

also/

My lightsaber FINALIZED SCH.jpg

So this is my saber i was just a bit tired and forgot to upload it. Im putting the fluted section on the bottom so i cn unscrew the bottom half and get to the card, each section will be tight and i will have retention screws keeping the parts together so they don't unscrew under dueling.

Question: So if i get a 150ohm 1/4 watt resistor to replace the 82ohm 1/8 watt resistor i should be fine or do i need to find a different resistor.
Question: Now i am completely confused i want the av switch to glow when i ignite the saber, i don't want it to glow when i putt the kill key, i also want to fun a orange and or amber led inside the saber in the vented area so that i can have a crystal chamber look. I have a few wiring diagrams but does anyone have one to kinda explain this if found about 3 others and a close resembelance video of madcow working on one of his sabers taking down and assembling.

Looking for: A wiring diagram that shows the av switch hookup so that it only glows when the saber is on, and a wiring diagram showing the extra led for the inside of the saber/and resistor needed and labeled.

Again the internal led i want to light when the saber's kill ket is activated. (unlike the av switch) i also want it to blink on standby.
Question: Any idea on how to make it do this?
Question: on top of the led inside of the saber i want to know beforehand if the sabers battery is running low how do i set up an led so that it only blinks when the sabers battery is low.

Im not a soldering expert but i will have a steady hand do it for me. I tried this on my first build, First build was so bad. i used tape instead of heat shrink and well it fried almost xP I'm a bit more experienced but i like to be sure I'm doing things right i don't want to fry the PC.
Thanks for your help,
FireBlaze97

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Admittedly I haven't carefully read through your posts (which I'll do tomorrow when I'm more awake), but here are some observations and a couple of questions...
1. Once a kill key in inserted, the idea is that NOTHING in the hilt gets power.
2. With the battery solution you are planning on using, you will likely see it in the "vented area", along with your LEDs, are you cool with that?
3. Where are you planning on putting this "low battery" LED?

[FireBlaze97]

1. I was meaning with the kill key out.
2. What i plan on doing is extending the cords and placing the battery towards the back(hidden somewhat from the vented area. With that in mind, i plan on making the fluted area unscrew so that i can access the sd card. the pc and battery will be placed with the chassis but wont be that visible
3. I want to place this led on the unit as the first thing, i want to make sure that it looks good enough.

With the cords I'm going to try my best to hide them in between the unvented areas. Even if that doesn't work i doubt i will see anything, I'm cutting out a small square of screen and placing it inside so with that the light shining through and the sound coming out from the pommel and the vented area it will sound and look good.

This saber is possibly a december build. Could be sooner.

[FireBlaze97]

Ok so i made a schematic for the PC, is everything correct, if not please help me correct this.

NOTE: for the av led i want it on only when the saber is ignited, for the 2nd 5v 3mm amber led i only want lit after the kill key is in. I have forever scratched the low battery indicator for i have no idea on what or where to put it.

PC diagram FINAL.jpg

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Ok so i made a schematic for the PC, is everything correct, if not please help me correct this.

NOTE: for the av led i want it on only when the saber is ignited, for the 2nd 5v 3mm amber led i only want lit after the kill key is in. I have forever scratched the low battery indicator for i have no idea on what or where to put it.

PC diagram FINAL.jpg

Why don't you use the AV LED as the indicator?

There are problems with your wiring. The switch pads do NOT power the AV LED. The AV will need 4 wires going to it, not 2. 2 for the switch and 2 for the LED circuit. Depending on what you ultimately decide to do with the AV LED, will depend on which way it would need to be wired.

[TrypWyr]

Also, it looks like you have both negative leads going to the same post on your recharge port. You should have the battery negative going to the bottom post in your diagram.

Check out this pic by Slothfurnace... one of the best diagrams ever.

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...165#post213165

[FireBlaze97]

Also, it looks like you have both negative leads going to the same post on your recharge port. You should have the battery negative going to the bottom post in your diagram.

Check out this pic by Slothfurnace... one of the best diagrams ever.

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...165#post213165

Yes I have that diagram I will correct this diagram I made today and repost the corrections, I'm learning about this stuff still but I think iv got it down now.