My first saber

[clahey83]

this is for wiring the hasbro sound boards
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...ghlight=hasbro

the only thing that bothered me about this board is anytime it is powered on or off, or when the clash sensor goes off, the main LED will flash. i got rid of this effect by wiring the LED into the speaker output. im running a blue P4 without a resistor and it lights up really well. you also get a really nice shimmer effect when the clash sensor trips (the light will fluctuate along with the sounds)

also, a BuckPuck wont be necessary with the sound board so if you take that into account it wont add all that much onto this build.

[ThePhaden]

With the red lights you need a 700mA BuckPuck, but the 4-wire variant is ok. Just change it to a 700mA version.
Also, you don't need any other stuff for the LED, like the new style heatsink. This is all build into LED set you added.
Again, try looking for a completly assambled blade instate of separte parts. You can add the bullet shapped tip there too.
I don't know if you're gonna use it for show or battles (or maybe both), but for each style is a different kind blade.

can you please post a link to the blade your talking about? I dont see where you can buy already made blades?

and Ok I will update the BuckPuck

[ThePhaden]

Yeah I just looked in the blade supply section and didnt see what you were talking about.... Cant I just glue the bullet head on the blade?

[ThePhaden]

With the red lights you need a 700mA BuckPuck, but the 4-wire variant is ok. Just change it to a 700mA version.
Also, you don't need any other stuff for the LED, like the new style heatsink. This is all build into LED set you added.
Again, try looking for a completly assambled blade instate of separte parts. You can add the bullet shapped tip there too.
I don't know if you're gonna use it for show or battles (or maybe both), but for each style is a different kind blade.

What blade should I be using then? And this will be for both I thought the one I picked out was fine

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Ok, I'll step in here. First, you forgot the pommel insert and the c-clip to keep it in place.

As far as the blades go, What Tim sells is normally fine, just read up and see what people do (use film) etc. to get the best out of them. I'm sure there is probably a tutorial floating around here somewhere if you use the Search button.

[ThePhaden]

Ok, I'll step in here. First, you forgot the pommel insert and the c-clip to keep it in place.

As far as the blades go, What Tim sells is normally fine, just read up and see what people do (use film) etc. to get the best out of them. I'm sure there is probably a tutorial floating around here somewhere if you use the Search button.

Ok... Still 100% confused on the blade thing... Can someone tell me what is wrong with the one I got?

And where is the C ring your talking about?

[ThePhaden]

Ok... Still 100% confused on the blade thing... Can someone tell me what is wrong with the one I got?

And where is the C ring your talking about?

found the c ring, but still confused about the blade thing...

[amwolf]

The ring is here: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MPS-Clip-P72.aspx - you'll need a pair of special pliers found at almost any hardware store to squeeze it together; push it into place as far as you can get it and wedge it down as needed with a flat head screwdriver.

As far as a blade goes, I'd recommend this one: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/LE...-OD--P543.aspx Just pick your length. Works well by itself, or you can roll up some clear cellophane gift wrap from a craft store and slide it in the tube to help diffuse the light. See this thread for more info on that: http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...how-I-do-it%29

[ThePhaden]

ok... Im pretty sure I got everything now...
Keep in mind I want a long hilt and ATM i do NOT want sound... heres my list...
Am I missing anything else for the pommel? I have the C ring in there

MHSchoker MHS choke style 3

POM3 Pommel style 3

Sledholder23 Screw on LED blade holder style 23

JSTCon JST connectors

switch11 SPST Latching Guarded switch with red button

Shilt1G Hilt style 1 with guarded style switch hole

10-32red 10-32 x 3/8" Red Acetal thumb screw

10-32tap 10-32 Tap & drill set
RSLM Rebel Star LED & MHS Heatsink Module
•Luxeon Rebel Star (Red)


MHSChokeLBlank MHS Extension Blank Style 2

4AAJST 4AA Battery Holder with JST connector

Buck700N BuckPuck 700mA 4-wire

Cclip MPS Clip

TWBattle LED Trans White Battle blade 1" OD (38 inches)
•** Clear Bullet Shaped

[Silver Serpent]

Ok, you can actually remove the c-clip. Pommel 3 is one of 3 pommels that don't take inserts (the other two are threaded for switches). The c-clip is one of the most commonly forgotten items for new builders, so it's one of the first things we look for in shopping lists. Unfortunately, pommel3 is a very popular pommel for new builders as well, and we don't always remember that it doesn't take an insert.

I didn't see anything wrong with your original blade supplies. You'd just need to assemble it yourself. Many of us do that, just don't use superglue with the clear blades. I've heard good things about Gorilla Glue, but Weld-on #3 or Weld-on #16 are ideal if you can get some. (So is chloroform, but you get funny looks when you try to buy it for personal use). Additionally, shipping is quicker if you build your own blades, as you don't have to wait for Tim to assemble them for you.

Good luck with your build! It's definitely gonna be long. The good news is that if you don't like the length, you can always remove some sections to make it shorter.