Here is the rebel deep red tcss offers, I bought this from the store. I put the lens holder on the LED so i will assume A+ is the led positive and the C- is the LED negative correct? thank you.
thank you.
whoa whoa whoa very different than what im use to!?!?
Here is the rebel deep red tcss offers, I bought this from the store. I put the lens holder on the LED so i will assume A+ is the led positive and the C- is the LED negative correct? thank you.
thank you.
"The force is everywhere, it binds us togeather"
Yes, but use the larger pads or else the lens holder won't fit.
Red 6 Standing By
yep you got it Xanatos
"You are a Jedi who never knew what life was until it ran out in a big gush over your lips."
<ARKM> "May you come to the attention of those in authority"
thank you much
"The force is everywhere, it binds us togeather"
That looks like it will be very hard to solder to...
A=Anode (+)
C=Cathode (-)
And heat up your soldering iron as high as it goes, to make the solder stick to those pads.
no its easy enough to solder to no diffrent then a LUX III
"You are a Jedi who never knew what life was until it ran out in a big gush over your lips."
<ARKM> "May you come to the attention of those in authority"
Interesting that is says "saber" on the LED star.
In order to see the Light,
you must sometimes risk the Dark.
TCSS MODERATOR
BLUE 8 Ready to ROCK and ROLL!
So do the small 10mm PCBs too... Interesting this is.Originally Posted by Jedi-Loreen
Got a Question? There's a thread for that...
~Do what you can, with what you have, where you are.~Teddy Roosevelt
SollusVir everywhere else... FXsabers, Youtube, etc...
Yeah, it is the saber star mcpcb. Don't try to solder it using lead free solder and definitely don't try to do it on the heatsink. The solder will never flow and stick on the pads. Some people recommend heating them in a pan or the oven (read the datasheets for max temps) and then soldering. Don't over do it with the temp on the iron. Those pads have max ratings!
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