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Thread: graflex screws and switches

  1. #1

    Default graflex screws and switches

    Hi all,

    I have an orig. graflex 3 cell. Am adding a petit crouton.

    Ideally, I would use the exiting glass eye and red switch for my on/off and aux sound switches, and the little hole between the two rectangles at the front for the blade retention screw – Is that possible with the tcss graflex adapter? Which switches and screw would you recommend?

    any personal experiences?

    Thanks for any help.

  2. #2

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    The glass eye, how would you use that as a switch?

    The way I did mine, I hotglued a small tactile switch to the adapter under the red button, and a small drop of hotglue to the red button to help it reach the switch and it works great.

    And the screw between the two rectangles, if you get a longer one, then yes you can use that as a blade retention screw. The original one is too short for that if I remember correctly.

  3. #3
    Jedi Padawan Ronan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rafalema View Post
    The glass eye, how would you use that as a switch?

    The way I did mine, I hotglued a small tactile switch to the adapter under the red button, and a small drop of hotglue to the red button to help it reach the switch and it works great.

    And the screw between the two rectangles, if you get a longer one, then yes you can use that as a blade retention screw. The original one is too short for that if I remember correctly.
    Correct.
    Corbin_Das: If I got a tattoo below my waist, it'd say "Found someone you have I would say, hmmmm?"

  4. #4

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    great,

    figured i could do a small tactile under the red button, and the same kind of thing under the glass eye on the other side.

    which longer screw do you use for blade retention?

    thanks

  5. #5

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    The glass eye isn't a switch. How are you supposed to press the switch?

    If you plan on making the central acrylic blob of the glasseye the switch, then you need some utterly insane godlike cram-fu. (read: not enough room there for a switch)

  6. #6

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    don't know about the cram fu.

    already figured that i would use a simple latching under the red button much like you have described, for the on/off.

    as you probably know, the original glass eye sits on top of a spring inside a little bay for a spare light bulb. my plan was to put a little momentary beneath the acrylic blob, use the existing spring to hold the blob away from the momentary (ie. in off position), and perhaps glue a spacer under the blob, for use as the aux.

    looking at the graflex adapter pic in the store, it looks like there is a whole rectangular cutaway on the front side (ie. the side withthe rectangles) - are you saying that there's not enough space there? are we mayble talking about different sides?

    Also, do you know if the srew hole between the rectangles on the graflex adapter is threaded?

    thanks so much for your help so far

  7. #7

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    Latching? You'll have a very tight fit if you can cram in one of those under the red switch. I recommend momentary. Or, if your board needs latching, then a momentary + lighthound PCB. (Do a search if you don't know what it is)

    True about the spring. But with the 1" blade adapter, you won't have the space for that.

    Yes, there is a cutout. But you see, this thing was designed with the intention of using a 10-32 glass eye replica thumbscrew in the place of the original one. If you want to use the original one, you have to sand off all the extra metal + a little bit from the glass eye threads to make it fit. After that, when you assemble it, there is seriously around 1mm of space between the glass eye plastic blob and the adapter.

    The screw hole in the adapter should be threaded.

  8. #8
    Jedi Padawan Ronan's Avatar
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    You want this: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/SP...itch-P261.aspx

    If your board only takes latching, get a lighthound pcb like Raf mentioned.
    Corbin_Das: If I got a tattoo below my waist, it'd say "Found someone you have I would say, hmmmm?"

  9. #9

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    ah, ok - i was under the impression that the on/off for the petit crouton needed to be latching, looking over the manual again, i see that it can be a momentary.

    think i will go with the replica glass eye thumb screw.

    so where for the aux? I suppose the obvious place is the little oval (there seems to be a trench up the side of the graflex adapter for that). thoughts?

  10. #10
    Jedi Padawan Ronan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by graflexflash View Post
    ah, ok - i was under the impression that the on/off for the petit crouton needed to be latching, looking over the manual again, i see that it can be a momentary.

    think i will go with the replica glass eye thumb screw.

    so where for the aux? I suppose the obvious place is the little oval (there seems to be a trench up the side of the graflex adapter for that). thoughts?
    We are talking about MR/FX board. If the PC needs to be latching (just like the MR/FX board) then its the same case, you need a lighthound pcb that will turn your mom tactile switch into a latching one.

    Here i got some info posted on my thread: http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...380#post183380
    I haven't put nearly everything i have since my laptop X_X during the built process. Feel free to shoot me question. Also go poke Azmaria, she knows a lot
    Corbin_Das: If I got a tattoo below my waist, it'd say "Found someone you have I would say, hmmmm?"

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