Petite Crouton, swing sensitivity adjustments.

[infa008]

I know that the PC has issues with swing sensitivity due to the swing sensor being pinned to the board. Is it possible to detatch and relocate the sensors through out the hilt to tweak the feel that you prefer. And does the swing sensor pick up better if places on the blade side or pommel side. By the way, so excited that a quality board is now redily available and not so scarce. Thanks Erv.

[Rafalema]

It is possible to detach and relocate the sensor. I'm not sure what good would that bring, since I don't know where I'd place it. That voids the warranty though.

[Skottsaber]

The PC has swing sensitivity issues? I wasn't aware..... And they would definitely not be due to the sensors being on the board, which is done in MR boards as well with good results.
You don't need to detach the sensor at all. You need to learn a bit more about the PC. It has a fully customisable set of parameters on the SD card which includes swing and clash sensitivity. You can tweak the settings to your saber and how you want it to feel, a more responsive sounding saber or a saber that you really have to swing to get the sounds.
Also, the majority of the times when people complain about the swings going off is when the saber is sitting on a stand or resting on a surface. Once you have it in your hand the sensitivity is very good, far superior to an MR board (and an Ultrasound board in some cases).
Again- detaching those sensors is a bad idea. People don't even do it on MR or economy boards, it will have no effect, or if it does I doubt it will be the one you expected.

[Crystal Chambers]

The clash sensor can easily be extended out on leads. I wouldn't recommend moving the swing sensors. Otherwise the configs and placement in the hilt should be fine. To the best of my knowledge if you chose to relocate the clash sensor then you'd want to put it near the blade end. The board is best in the pommel end but can work in the emitter end. Mainly the worst area is dead center. Sometimes the speaker can set off the sensors if it's too close as well. This should be covered in the manual but I haven't looked at it in a while.

[Zook]

the best thing to do is adjust the "i" setting before trying to move the swing sensors. Anything you do like that has to be done at your own risk. My guess is that you may make it feel more realistic but it might also be more erratic.

BTW when did you get your board?

We got new sensors on this last run (the boards available for sale after 5-2). They have tighter tolerances and do not go off on the stand from what I have tested. Because of this they are less sensitive at the factory setting so you have to increase "i" a good bit more (up to around .70 from the .55 stock) but YMMV so experiment with it.

Once I have a chance to test a few more installs with different set ups I will post an update for the settings on all forums.

[IndustrialAction]

I think placement makes a big difference too. I've watched a few PC videos and you can hear swing sounds with sabers just sitting in stands. The saber I just finished has the PC mounted almost directly under the activation box. I have zero false swings. This did however cause another problem with clashes but like Crystal said, I relocated the clash sensor up into the choke. Now I get no false swings and accurate clashes.

I don't know how others feel about this but I'd like to see the clash sensor as a separate component in the future.

[Zook]

I think placement makes a big difference too. I've watched a few PC videos and you can hear swing sounds with sabers just sitting in stands. The saber I just finished has the PC mounted almost directly under the activation box. I have zero false swings. This did however cause another problem with clashes but like Crystal said, I relocated the clash sensor up into the choke. Now I get no false swings and accurate clashes.

I don't know how others feel about this but I'd like to see the clash sensor as a separate component in the future.

Tim specifically wants it on the board to make it easier for the majority of people and do not think that will change. Also it is really close to some components and some people may have trouble soldering and bridge the connector to the component and cause failure. You have to remember that the PCL is designed for the general consumer that may or may not be skilled in soldering. The more advanced users such as yourself will feel confident in relocating the sensor if need be but the less advanced may not feel very comfortable soldering to those pads.

a little tip on the clash sensors...sometimes you can thump them a few times before installing the board to help loosen them up some.

[IndustrialAction]

I see you point, Zook. I guess the only way to make it easy for a novice consumer would be to put the clash on a wire-to-board connector so the clash sensor could be plugged in.

[Skottsaber]

a little tip on the clash sensors...sometimes you can thump them a few times before installing the board to help loosen them up some.

Just want to confirm this. Literally tested with a multimeter, it's no placebo.

[Rhyen Skytracker]

Just want to confirm this. Literally tested with a multimeter, it's no placebo.

Doesn't everyone slap around their electronics before use? LOL

This little tip does work. I thump all my clash sensors brfore use and they ARE more responsive.