I didnīt actually thought about that... Is that a reasonable problem?I don't plan on using it as a kill switch but a secondary precaution to prevent trickle draining the batteries and risk frying the board during recharge.
the reason people put "recharge ports with kill keys" or "kill switches" into their sabers is generally to protect the electronics/led during battery charging.
most boards also draw *some* power whether they're turned on or not, so the kill key/switch also helps with battery life a little bit.
You should not have the board/led in the circuit while charging batteries, unless your battery charger is of the "very low output takes days to charge at barely over the battery voltage" variety.
AK-47s and Lightsabers, both so fun to build
ok change of plans
instead of a P4 I plan on getting a Seoul SSC P7 White led first question
what else would i need to add or change to get this working?
Last edited by Enzerumo; 09-07-2010 at 07:35 PM.
Good luck with powering that efficiently through and MR board...
How much voltage and current does it need?
good luck with the p7, i have been working on getting mine to run right for a few months now, you should stick to the p4 which can be driven directly from the mr board you already have on hand
and fyi the p7 needs at least 2400 mah to run properly, so your going to have to go with a double 18650 pack to run just the p7, and that is far more than your mr board will handle, considering its max is 6v
Last edited by jjshumpert; 09-07-2010 at 08:54 PM.
ok so would the 4AA pack with 4x AA 2600mAh NiMH Rechargeable battery that Tim sells work or should I get TrustFire Protected 3.7V 2400mAh 18650 Lithium Battery and make my own battery pack? Mind you this will be on a US2.5 I managed to track one down and space in the hilt is no problem so i could use the 6AA if need be.
Last edited by Enzerumo; 09-08-2010 at 12:10 PM.
for one if you go with the p7 you will more than likely need 2 switches, one for the mr board and one for the lux. if you go with a p4 you can run it directly off the board, and if you use all your negative leads that puts you at 1200 mah to the lux which is uber bright. another issue with the p7 is heat. it will get hot to the touch within 30 seconds, so if this is what you decide to go with your going to have to find a way to mount a fan inside the saber and drill holes into the hilt body under the fan to get the hot air out, otherwise you wont be able to handle the saber very long.
i just earlier hooked up my p7 using a custom double 18650 pack that puts out 7.2v@2600mah and the led is bright, but not that much more than the p7. also there is the issue of heat, im still working out the fan and air ports on the hilt the p7 is going into. another thing to keep in mind is tims optics will not work with the p7, as the holders in the store can not be used with the p7 because the dome on the emitter is HUGE. i had to cut down a collector lens from a tactical flashlight and use it with the 1.25 blade holder so that i could adjust the depth of the lux to the optic, considering the dome is not only bigger than the p4's but it is also very soft material, and if you crush the dome then you waisted 15.00...
just my 2 cents
OK new plan the US i bought got fried in transit so that sucks any way here's the new plan white P4, Asajj fx soundboard, recharge port ,AAA 1000mAh NiMH Rechargeable battery, 4AAA battery pack, Latching red illuminated switch and speaker. can someone give me a possible wiring diagram and is it possible to wire 2 speakers to a MR board?
Last edited by Enzerumo; 09-16-2010 at 07:24 PM.
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