We're going to need to add the bit and tap for the new 12mm AV switches in the store. Not sure what the specs are on it yet.
We're going to need to add the bit and tap for the new 12mm AV switches in the store. Not sure what the specs are on it yet.
We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.
http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!
What is the difference between Metric Taper and Plug Tap?
Last edited by ilpostino; 04-22-2014 at 04:53 AM.
Plug Tap: A type of hand tap that has 3 to 5 tapered threads and is often used second in the sequence of hand taps used to tap blind holes. Plug taps can be used in place of taper taps.
Blind Hole: A hole that does not pass through a component and has only one opening.
Metric is just a system of measurement, as opposed to US Standard.
http://www.toolingu.com/definition-1...-plug-tap.html
We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.
http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!
Hi All,
I'm trying to come up with switch cap ideas for Switch17 but have been unable to find anything as far as measurements for the switch in my searches. Sorry to ask, especially if I've missed it, but any help is appreciated.
I'm specifically interested in actuator height and diameter and the suggested hole size for mounting.
Thanks in advance.
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Thanks FJK for the quick response. Knowing even just the hole size helps a lot.
I was thinking maybe the eraser cap from a mechanical pencil would work but its seems like it might be too big (roughly 7/32). I was also looking at micro acorn cap nuts as an option. Those might be the way to go. If the actuator on the switch can be sanded, that means I can most likely twist the bolt on for a tight fit.
I guess my best bet is to buy the switch and tinker around.
Usually, those are NOT used with a cap of any type.
TCSS MODERATOR
All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
1. Forum Guidelines
2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law
"Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com
Thanks for the heads-up. Is there a reason why or is it just not common?
TCSS MODERATOR
All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
1. Forum Guidelines
2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law
"Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com
the 12mm AV switch will use a 7/16" drill bit and the tap you will need is a 12mm x 0.75" TAP i just bought the tap and i will be testing this out as soon as i get it in. i'll verify once i've tested to be certain.
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