Possibly upgrading my saber and I have a few questions

[Sidd]

Ok I am thinking of upgrading my personal saber to be brighter and last a bit longer and I have a few questions. but first here it my current saber set up



MHS hilt with a MR Yoda board, TCSS premium speaker, Seoul P4 blue and lighted latching AV switch all powered by 4 AAA alkaline cells.

My first question is would a Single 3.7 volt lithium cell be enough to power the whole rig and increase the brightness of the P4?

If i were to put a buckpuck into the circuit to overdrive the P4 would i put it before or after the clash sensor?

and lastly would one of those JST 4 wire QD plugs they sell in the TCSS store fit through the hole i drilled for my AV switch? my plan is to put the switch on a disconnect so i can easily remove it if i need to work on the saber. right now it is just hardwired in

thank you for the help and suggestions

[Rafalema]

1. The Li-Ion cell will be enough to power the soundboard, but I have no idea will it increase the brightness.

2. I don't know what you would achieve with a buckpuck, but it would come after the clash sensor.

3. Not at the same time I think

[Skottsaber]

I also wan't to know if the 4-wire connector would fit. My thoughts were, if not, then put on 2 JST connectors, one with slightly longer wires from the switch, so I can pull one out, and then the other without a big squeeze.

[Shadar Al'Niende]

I recently used a 4 wire QD on my saber with a 22mm hole , yes it will fit but only if you modify it

I took the two "wings" (guess you could call them tabs) off and it fits just fine.

You can kind of see the part i am referring to at the top of this picture here:



Also I am told that 3.7 will run it in theory, but that to use 4-6v is best.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

A buck puck wouldn't overdrive the led, since it's output is only 1000ma, and the Yoda outputs very close to that if not more with a 4.8v/6v set up like you have now. A buck puck also has a minimum input voltage of 5 volts, so a single Li-Ion 18650 wouldn't properly power it. You don't need the buck puck anyway, the board will drive the led just fine by itself.

Another thing that may work for you is to swap out the 4-AAA battery holder for the 4-AA battery holder TCSS stocks. This might allow you to mount the sound board on top of the battery holder. You would of course, also have to replace your speaker mount with the v3 if you used a v2 in this saber.

[cardcollector]

The only ways to increase the brightness of a lightsaber is

-feed it more "ma".
- Buy a 5W or even 10W LED, the LEDenginge 10W is the brightest LED I know of that is used in sabers.

[Jedi-Loreen]

Then he'd need to change the battery solution too, don't forget.

[Rafalema]

OR get a relay

[Lord Dottore Matto]

Yoda board = ~1A
buckpuck = 1A

Therefore, no need to change.

a 3.7V battery (when fully charged) is actually about 4.2V and that board is made to run on 4.5 V so, you would not see a difference in functionality, but you would indeed save a bit of space and would be able to wire in a recharge/kill setup so you never need to open the saber.

As for the connector, a 4 wire does fit with mods, but I would recommend (2) of the JST connectors like skottsaber suggested or PM me for further advice.

[Shadar Al'Niende]

... a 3.7V battery (when fully charged) is actually about 4.2V and that board is made to run on 4.5 V so, you would not see a difference in functionality, but you would indeed save a bit of space and would be able to wire in a recharge/kill setup so you never need to open the saber. ...

Couldn't have put it better myself