2010 Electronic Lightsaber w/ DVD Tutorial

[capuchin16]

Hi, hoping someone here can help fix my problem. I'm using the Obi board, I followed the basic setup diagram on the first page, no accent led's no recharge port and a 5v power supply. I got everything wired up but when I activated it I had sound but the LED wasn't working. My first thought was "I just blew the LED" so I removed the board completely and tested, LED works fine... wired it back up again and still no light.
Anyone have an idea what the issue could be?

[Silver Serpent]

Take a picture of your wiring. It sounds like you have something wired incorrectly. Quite possibly the issue is with the wiring of your PNP transistor. Or perhaps you picked up an NPN transistor by accident. I could tell you more after looking at your wiring.

[drakula]

Hi!
I build lightsaber. And I want to use a sound card from Hasbro Electronic LIghtsaber Anakin model.
Unfortunately LEDs in this saber is very weak and can not illuminate the blade.
So, I want to use the described scheme with powerful LED.
But I did not understand what the transistor, LED and resistor used in the scheme?
Please help)
May the force be with you!
2010ModifiedBasicrev01-10-2011.jpg

[Sevinzol]

the transistor is a switch that lets more of the voltage and current get to the LED. The size of the resistor depends on the color/type of LED you are using and the battery voltage. Once you know the battery and LED type you can calculate what size resistor you need

[drakula]

Thank you.
If I use a transistor TIP42C and LED 5 W, will the selected diagram work?
Thank you.

[RevelAlliance]

​I have two soundboards currently. I have one from a 1995 Luke Skywalker and one from a 2008? Obi-wan. They worked great when inside the hilts. They even worked when I got the cases/hilts half way off. But as soon as I got the boards, and other parts, out and wired to a AA battery holder, neither work.

I am really only after the sound and could care less about the light for the project I am working on (which both wired to a standard flash light bulb socket, no LEDs in these cheap things). Seeing this and other Forum posts about this shows me I am wiring the correct wires to the battery holder. Ideas why the boards are dead now and what I can test to see if I can re-wire/fix?

[ridgewa.d]

How do you get the LED to come on with the switch instead of turning on when the kill key is removed? I used a 7.4 LI, 5V Regulator and PNP transistor wiring as shown but when the kill key is removed the LED comes on and the sound is the only thing activated by the on off switch. I would like the LED to fire with the sound off of the switch

[bRo0k5y]

How do you get the LED to come on with the switch instead of turning on when the kill key is removed? I used a 7.4 LI, 5V Regulator and PNP transistor wiring as shown but when the kill key is removed the LED comes on and the sound is the only thing activated by the on off switch. I would like the LED to fire with the sound off of the switch

Hi everyone, long time stalker, first time poster as they say

Problem #1: I am having the same problem as ridgewa.d. I have read through this entire thread and found people with the same problem (eg posts #707, #762), but haven't come across a solution.

I am following the diagram for the "7.2 V - 7.4 V with voltage regulator, recharge port and accent LED" wiring on the first page. The only differences being I have no accent led, and am using a buckpuck instead of a resistor.
If I use the diagram above it (i.e. with no recharge port) everything works fine (led and sound turn on together when I press the switch), but when I add the recharge port the led is always on and the switch only activates the sound.
Any ideas on what might be wrong or a solution? I don't want to have to add a separate switch for the led.

Problem #2: I have a 1.2A 7.4V li-ion charger, but it charges my batteries fully to 8.4V. I have noticed that when the batteries are above approximately 7.6V that the sound doesn't work (despite using 5v regulator). Sometimes I'll get a click or a beep from the speaker when I turn it on and then no sound. I thought the regulator was meant to control this sort of problem?
Ironically, my first problem allows a messy fix to this whereby I run only the LED until the battery voltage drops enough for the sound to work, but obviously I don't want this solution.

Apologies if these have already been answered, I have tried my best to find the solutions but maybe I'm not searching with the correct keywords

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Welcome to the Forums.

I'm no expert on conversions, that's usually why I leave them alone unless it's a very basic question.

However, I can help you with #2. 7.4V packs usually do go up to 8.4V when they are FULLY charged. That full voltage doesn't last long, but it does usually go that high on a healthy battery pack. I'll let the others chime in with how they handle this issue.

[Silver Serpent]

It sounds like an issue with your 5v regulator. You might try a different one. Also, be sure that you've wired it up correctly. Different models may have different pin arrangements.