there is a "hack" you can do to it that will allow the nano to handle more current... but honestly a tri-cree will be brighter because of how it focuses down the blade vs a 12w (making it actually...
Type: Posts; User: clahey83
there is a "hack" you can do to it that will allow the nano to handle more current... but honestly a tri-cree will be brighter because of how it focuses down the blade vs a 12w (making it actually...
there wouldnt be any problem with that kind of setup. make sure you are using a buck puck or a resistor though so you dont blow your LED
one of the last schematics on this thread shows you how to run your LED off of the speaker's output. its for older sound boards but the basic operation is still the same
ive done it on several...
It's got a tri-rebel RGrB, and it has the non-removable conversion kit.
The "glass eye" is actually hot glue now lol. I couldn't find a suitable piece of plastic for it :(
i just wanted to show off a saber Ive been working on. its a 2007 hasbro luke ANH saber. i got it from a friend and it was in terrible condition.
I CALL IT THE YOUNGLING SLAYER (i call every...
great job! i love the design
changing the speaker with a better one will help, but only so much. make sure the speaker you change it out with has the same ohm rating as the original though
try adjusting your drive parameter down.
this hilt is gorgeous. im jealous
if its a newer pommel (it would have the same inner diameter as the main hilt piece) you can use a chassis disk style 5 and a speaker holder style 4 and basically mount the speaker inside of the...
ive got a way for you to test foltage coming into the board. get the + and - from one of your LEDs, put a resistor on it so the 3.7V wont blow it, and connect it to your board voltage inputs. if the...
if you have a multimeter check for voltage coming into the board. i doubt it but its possible that you wired up your recharge port wrong. also, make sure your SD card is inserted when you are testing...
you might not like this idea, but it might be the best way to narrow down your problem.
desolder all non-essential connections. the only things connected should be:
power, speaker, led channel 1. ...
if you look through the crystal focus LS manual you will see the connectors that are suggested for use with the LED string blades. if you get a heatsink from TCSS, that connector will fit perfectly...
i recommend transplanting it into another hilt.
you CAN, but if one of the LEDs ever goes out, it may cause the other one to go too. basically, if one goes out all of the current (amps) that was going to the one that went out will suddenly rush...
that will work
For the main LED you should be using a resistor between 2.2 ohms and 2.7 ohms. anything 2 Watt and up will work.
for the switch LED, you can use another DynaOhm Variable Resistor. if you decide to...
i have a friend that is working on a Finn cosplay for upcoming events and for the episode 7 release. he has an MR Luke ANH saber that needs some serious repair... my biggest concern is the "clamp"....
I was able to set up a couple of color changing sabers with the NB by wiring a slider switch to 2 of the dies on a RGB LED. I just told the owners of the sabers to make sure they have the blade...
I actually have an idea for you. I can post any links as this forum is attached to a store, but there are some AA to D cell adapters available. you could use them to house any electronics you will...
if you are building your first saber I would highly suggest using one of the high powered LEDs that are sold in the store string blades are great but they require a LOT of work and using a single...
3 inch should work
make sure you purchase the service for drilling the blade retention screw hole unless you plan on drilling and tapping it yourself.
the AV switch will not go into the guarded switch hole. either...
the flutes aren't what people put the grips into, there is a service that tim offers for the grips.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Milled-cutouts-for-grip-style-2-P821.aspx