those where out of stock i think when i tried buying them with my order. the only size 28mm avilable was the $12 ones. and well. like i said. when i had free monies with amazon or spend $12 out of...
Type: Posts; User: Danz409
those where out of stock i think when i tried buying them with my order. the only size 28mm avilable was the $12 ones. and well. like i said. when i had free monies with amazon or spend $12 out of...
due to limited stock in TCSS AND the fact i had amazon gift card balance i bought my speaker for my project from amazon. i specifically looked for the 28mm sized ones to fit in the hilt and well....
thanks but i think i got a better option. i found some saber cores on ebay for $22 shipped. now if only TCSS can do something about the heatsinks that are out of stock
i'm planning on building a stunt/beater saber and id like sound, i thought id be ok with just light but. common. its just not the same! Once upon a time Hasbro made toys. but they seem to be ether...
yea sadly they don't seem to exists. so i bought a resistor programmable eval board from digikey. hopefully that does the trick.
normally i would just use a resister. but that's not very efficient....
got my testing done. i did some under-driving to a luxion K3 white to 100 mili-amps and compared that to 5x 20ma basic LEDs and the brightness is surprisingly no different. though the luxion was a...
sorry for the super slow responce. but yes. it is indeed a Frankenstein power supply. it used to be a wireless radio supply for a local collage. but it was retired and somehow my uncle got a hold of...
yea. its basically going to be a "brighter" version of those yard lights
something that actually puts off a usable ambient light.
as for testing. i'm fine with 5x 20 miliamp accent LEDs but for a...
sadly those are still too high. as said i plan to put 2 LEDs in running 100 miliamps each *assuming the forward voltage is somewhere around 3.7 is the luman/watt ratio worse when you under drive...
i'm not seeing ANYTHING for low powerd drivers. ill just have to use my CF and limit current with R.I.C.E to experiment with. anyway. does anyone know of the best LED to under-drive?
this is a bit of an off topic project. still working with LEDs, i'm looking to basically make a yard/garden light with the same carbonate tube lighting element as the lightsabers.
however there is...
and the final product! can't believe i didn't do this much earlier. was MUCH easier than i had expected. and the project only costed $140~ overall, after all this was sed and done. i found that...
and project is nearly complete. just need to find some pegboard and hardware (going to have to wait until i get more cash. resources depleted)
with a few minor design changes. it turned out...
more work done to the workbench and i have to say. i'm a bit impressed with how it is turning out!
http://i.imgur.com/xUTsrv2.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/sOu1aKM.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/gsSViul.jpg
...
it has been a while. i have moved to a new apartment. and haven't been to heavy into DIY, mostly because i don't have a proper "work" place. unlike my grandpas house i don't have luxeries such as...
ahh its all clear now. thanks!
to save cash.. a LOT of it... i decided to just have a second go at the LED engin and just ignore the amber.. (i may just put that on a triditional clash sensor/tip42 for psudo FoC effects) but for...
here is the tri-rebel. (yea its a little beat up)
http://i.imgur.com/c5JunTx.jpg
since they share the same ground. i'm going to have to put the resistors between the + on the LEDs and the battery...
well i found out what the pad labled "FoC" is, its a pre-amped line for the color mixing board. so thats not going to do anything on the amber die. since i wouldn't be able to make use of all 4 die...
http://www.plecterlabs.com/Media/Doc/CrystalFocusSaberCoreV6.10-v1.2-GB.pdf page 34 shows how you should wire up color-mixing without the color extender.
thats exactly how i have mine wired up other...
i am useing only 3. the amber is wired to the pad labeled FoC for the flash on clash effects if this LED causes too much troubles i do have a luxion tri-rebel i can use in its place. i may just try...
wait... what? O.o i thought there was 2 pads for each dice
that does look like it could be the problem. looks like the insulating layer on some of the wires didn't last so well considering how hot i had to get those pads to melt the solder...
soldering...
so i finally got my resistors in but it is not looking good. i fired it up for the first time and even without the board booting the green (more so than the others) is on even without ignition. here...
yea. international shipping is workers... we have a specialized road survey vehicle and when our alternator fried up in canada. (none of the local repair shops had anything NEAR the magantude of this...