Just saw this today, really goes through the whole process really well.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZbidR3z2YJ4
Type: Posts; User: Jordandau
Just saw this today, really goes through the whole process really well.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZbidR3z2YJ4
I pulled a cf 6.10 out of an old saber and am trying to transplant it. Got it all worked up and have this sound happening
...
Board and switch work perfectly, turning lights on, flash on clash works etc. But if I wire in the speaker it shorts out and nothing works at all. I tried to see if I got extra solder anywhere, but...
Is it ok if I post a shapeways link?
I couldn't find one at all. So I just made it. I made it in 4 pieces (5 if you count the wings twice). I don't need them functional so these should work good if anyone else like me is doing a...
Hey guys, I'm going to start putting together a starkiller costume and while I have 1 covertec clip that I purchased right here... The costume requires a few more. I have access to a 3d printer so I...
Awesome, thanks for the response. That's along what I was thinking, but sometimes you just need someone to say... Yeah that looks right
Hey guys, I've done a bunch of reading, so this is mainly to confirm what I think I understand already.
I've also posted this on the fx boards, I don't know if it's ok to post links to it or not....
Just curious, because I just might have my saber I'm building, just to build it finished for the deadline... If it's one I've been slowly working on for a few years is it eligible? I really didn't...
This is pretty brilliant. Where'd you get the aluminum tube?
The carbon fiber rods are usually MUCH thinner than 1". That's about all I know.
Yeah, it's just a suggestion. Great job still!
Great saber, but a quick suggestion: I'd either trim your wires a bit shorter or put some heat shrink on the connections closest to the board. You've got some overhang and it could potentially cause...
It beats the pants off of MR sound boards. Better accuracy, changeable fonts, and in most cases, smaller footprint. If you're going cheap, no other way for me.
I REALLY dig how you did the kill key and rice port on this.
I'd definitely go if it easy to do. I don't have a lot of free time for trips, so unless it was a southern California thing I would have to opt out.
That purple color is very nice and it works well with the amber.
That's true that the board can only use Momentary, but I don't like to assume so I asked for more details.
AV switches can me momentary or latching, and can have accent LEDs in them or not. We'll need more details.
You'll have to pick a power source first, but for 6V your forward V is 3.25 so you'd need a 3.3 ohm 5 watt, and for the 3.7V cell you'd need 1 ohm 2 watt. All of this info is also in the store right...
The blade itself isn't damaged, it's the leds that run the length of the blade. You have a few options. You can convert it to a single LED, which if you do you'll never have this problem again, and...
Nope, it's only for li po and nimh
Honestly I say the NB is even easier than an MR board, but that's just me.
I'd go the PVC or other route. Wrapping in electrical tape or heat shrink is a bad idea. The board puts out heat that needs to dissipate. It can't if it's wrapped up.
You don't need a driver with the nano, just the correct resistor. It's far cheaper and smaller that way.