That Pommel is Definitely not made to accept a recharge port by default. But if you are set on using it, you could possibly drill out that center sound hold to be the right size to accept the RP......
Type: Posts; User: Cire Yeldarb
That Pommel is Definitely not made to accept a recharge port by default. But if you are set on using it, you could possibly drill out that center sound hold to be the right size to accept the RP......
I've done some pretty hard dueling with my friends (always with sound-capable sabers), and the issues I've encountered are as follows (from most common to least common):
Blade Tips Flying Off (a...
I bought the Adafruit charging circuits to do something like this as well, but have yet to set it up haha, so you are a step ahead of me!
Indeed! But now that see it, I feel out-of-practice for not having thought of it in the first place haha
Emailed back and forth with Erv, and it looks like he suggests the below setup for what I would like to do. Just wanted to let everyone else know what the answer was from the man himself!
17701
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I would ditch the buckpuck and go for resistors personally. I believe (could be wrong) you need 1 buckpuck per LED (or at least 1 per color) anyways, so resistors would be smaller for the same thing....
I know I had read this information about protection circuits before, just can't recall where... rechecked store page and CF manuals and didn't see it in either location, but I know somewhere I had...
Okay, so wondering if the following Wiring would work, with the exception of the Amber LED just turning on "non-delayed" compared with the RGB LEDs which would turn on "delayed" (depending on the...
Wow, thanks for digging so much Raven! Yeah, I'm hesitant to do the Neopixel (for this particular saber anyways) for exactly the reasons you noted.
Not a bad idea on running PEX's off the accent...
Hey y'all! So I have it in my mind to make a color-changing saberstaff, with RGBA main LEDs to get some really nice Amber hues... For which my initial thought would be to go with the CFX.
Now the...
Glad to hear it! :D
I was not here a decade ago to remember you, but welcome back! :D
Taken from this thread on the subject, suggestions include:
Use a C Clamp to press the two sides of the switch plates together. That should reduce the pressure on the pin and allow it to slip out...
I bought a SF empty, for the same reason you plan to, and the quality of the hilt is "ehh".
There are some sharp edges that can cut you if you're not careful before you sand them down, the pieces...
I actually really like the pattern that makes!
Good luck on the costume indeed! I myself am working on an ROTJ, but at a snail's pace haha
Nice! I'm always a fan of a shiny saber!
I see blasters semi-regularly at goodwill/savers type establishments, that is where i would head first
I'm just curious why you slit the hose? Especially since you showed that it fits over the 3/4 blade fine in one piece (if a little tough to get on, but that just means it would be more secure in my...
As I am sure you found, the stock MR board is not capable of running more than 1 individual LED at full brightness; adding others decreases the current going to each
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Chassis-Parts-C74.aspx
I don't recall anyone specifically doing UV reactive paint with their UV lights, but others have tried adding UV LEDs in general
See for more information:
Latest Board
Slightly older Board...
is the battery all charged up? sometimes continuous swings/clashes like that are caused by low battery
Niiice! I have all 4 of these, and the Sith one is definitely my favorite!
Ace beat me to it, and with a very complete response!