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Thread: LEDengin 5w and 10W info and wiring guide....for noobs

  1. #201


    Hello all,
    First off, thank you to Fender for this awesome thread and for your efforts in keep up with it. I read through it and my confusion ebbs and flows as I read it so I want to make sure I got this right.

    Here is my situation: I am getting ready to order parts to upgrade a stunt saber to a sound saber. This means I will have left over parts which to me equals, another build. I am trying to maximize this order and plan ahead so here is what I want to do…

    With my left overs and some additional parts, I want to build a yellow bladed stunt saber with this LEDengin. My plan, if I understand this correctly, is to wire up the Red and Green LEDs in parallel, no resistors, each with their own 1000mA Buck Puck off of one 4 cell AAA battery pack. This saber will be for display (ie, carry it at an event, turn it on, take a picture, turn it off). I am not terribly picky about the shade of yellow as long as it is yellow and not amber/ red-ish.

    1-Will this set up actually work or is there something else I am missing?
    2-Will the color come out the way I think it will?
    3-Will the batteries be enough for its intended use?
    4-I have never done pad soldering before, only wire to wire. Is there something you can recommend I practice on that will give me the right feel for doing this?

    Thanks in advance for any help with this. And in general, thank you to all of you guys for the help you have given me already. I have learned a ton with each build. Hopefully, in time, I will be helping to answer noob questions….but I know I have much to master before that time comes.

  2. #202


    1. More or less, yes. It works on paper, but the results in practice may not be ideal.
    2. It *might* come out the way you like. Red and Green do make yellow, but the exact shade will depend on the binning of your LED. The only way to find out is to try it.
    3. Not really. LEDEngins are notoriously power hungry. AAA batteries are unlikely to last long at all under that kind of load. You've got a 2A draw from 4 AAA batteries. That's a recipe for a leaking battery pack. You could either swap to NiMH, li-ion, or use a Tri-Rebel instead of the LEDEngin.
    4. Got any scrap computer parts? Old electronic gizmos that don't work anymore? Those are great for practice.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings. for the lazy man's resistor calculator! for getting resistor values the right way!

  3. #203


    Thanks SS. Right after I posted this I saw someone else posted a thread about using the Tri Rebels for a purple mix. That got me thinking that the Tri Rebel might be better for my use. I only considered the LEDengin because I am pretty sure that is what the other guys use for their special colors (I took one apart to look at it).

    I do have a few broken computer thingys lying around, I will use them for practice.

    I will have to think this over a little more but you have given me a lot of info to work with. Thanks for your help.

  4. #204
    Council Member
    Jedi Master
    FenderBender's Avatar
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    Jul 2008
    Earth System - Rhode Island


    No saber with a 9/10W LED should ever be run on AAA size battery whether it's alkaline or NiMh. Go with a single 18650 LiIon and you'll be good. I would also go with a Tri Rebel for this, however you will NOT get away with not resisting the dice. With the single cell set up I mentioned above, you'll need a 2W 1Ohm for the red die and you'll have to get a potentiometer and solder it inline with the green die then dial in the shade you want and meter it with your VM. THis will tell you the exact resistor needed for your given color. You can do it with the LEDengin, and like was mentioned above, might get the shade you want, but the Tri will be brighter.

    If you're new, please take the time we all consider just as precious as you and READ!


    Official BMF and LORD OF THE STRINGS

  5. #205


    Aloha everyone, this is my first time posting. I am building my first saber and doing excessive research, leading me of course to your work fender, which honestly I have to say thank you your posts and info have been by far the best bit of info I have found yet. Leading me to join and post , this thread in particular has led me to more answers than all others combined.

    That all said I have some questions, I'm not looking for the tech info as much as I am your opinion and suggestion I can do the math all day and am decently sufficient in electronics and soldering but nothing makes up for experience.

    My build is a simple solid one piece saber hilt 11 inches long,with a ultraedge heavy grade 24 inch blade I'm thinking no frills FULL power, I am looking at the LEDengin 10w WWWW I want all four firing but to strobe A single LED for FOC . Not only do I want to run all cool whites I want to know if you think it'd be ok to run them at 1500ma? 1a overdriven even or am I pushing it?And if so what resistors /buck puck configuration would you suggest? How much power would this require and what soundboard could handle it even. I'm imaging it would need to be at least 14v... And do you think it'll all fit...any ideas on making this work?

    Thanks for all the help already.


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