Recharge port hookup

[spits79]

I'm actually looking at doing the same thing and I think this should be how you should wire the NB:

nb with port.jpg

I would definitely not take my word for it as I am brand spanking new to this too but I am pretty sure this is correct.

[jcook1023]

spits - have you tried that wiring yet?

[Jay-gon Jinn]

I'm actually looking at doing the same thing and I think this should be how you should wire the NB:

nb with port.jpg

I would definitely not take my word for it as I am brand spanking new to this too but I am pretty sure this is correct.

That is correct, and should work fine for your set up.

[spits79]

Nah I've not tried it yet. I've not ordered parts yet and I am in the UK too so when I do it will be weeks before I get it.

[spits79]

I'm actually looking at doing the same thing and I think this should be how you should wire the NB:

nb with port.jpg

I would definitely not take my word for it as I am brand spanking new to this too but I am pretty sure this is correct.

I realise this might be a little old now but I finally ordered and build a saber. I followed the diagram I posted and much to my own surprise it bloody well work... whoo-hoo. Anyway I just figured I would put this in for any other following the wanted to know the exact way to setup a NB

[ZombieWrangler]

I've read this whole thread and several others and I'm still confused.

I just want to be able the charge the saber without unscrewing the pommel and removing the 2 14500 batteries. I know eventually the wires will be bent so many times they will break. I don't want a kill key, and I'm not going to run it off the wall adapter.

I have a 7.2v /.5A charger like the one shown in this thread (and avail at TCSS) and bought the port adapter that plugs onto the charger. I don't understand why I can't just splice in the charging port on the red and black battery wires?

Do I need to bother with that 3rd terminal?

[GFJedi]

I've read this whole thread and several others and I'm still confused.

I just want to be able the charge the saber without unscrewing the pommel and removing the 2 14500 batteries. I know eventually the wires will be bent so many times they will break. I don't want a kill key, and I'm not going to run it off the wall adapter.

I have a 7.2v /.5A charger like the one shown in this thread (and avail at TCSS) and bought the port adapter that plugs onto the charger. I don't understand why I can't just splice in the charging port on the red and black battery wires?

Do I need to bother with that 3rd terminal?

Think of the port like a normally closed switch. The two poles for ground are connected when nothing is plugged into the port. When something is plugged into the port, the ground is open. This is a safety feature to isolate the battery for recharging. Technically if you are using a latching switch for a stunt saber, you 'could' get away with not using all 3 poles and just wiring the battery to the port, but if you accidentally turn on the saber while plugged in, you risk damaging things. With a soundboard it's necessary to use all 3 poles to isolate the battery from the soundboard when plugging it in to recharge. It's no harder to use all 3 poles on the port than trying to bypass it like you want to do.

[Silver Serpent]

It's much better if you do. When the saber is plugged in and charging, you only want power flowing to the battery pack and not the rest of the saber. The kill key setup will automatically cut power to your saber's electronics while the batteries are being charged. That way, you don't risk the li-ion charger accidentally cooking your sound board.

You don't need to actually use a kill key if you don't want to.

[andyfairall]

Wiring up a new saber and this is the first time I am using a buckpuck. I have the MWS version and I plan on having a AV switch in it and I would like the switch led to be on all the time, kinda like a power indicator. So I was going with a recharge port kill key set up and I am having a hard time figuring out where exactly to wire to. The MWS buckpuck has a B+ and B- as well as R+ and R-. Looks like the R- goes straight to B-. So with the standard kill key setup where Do I wire the Bat- and Board- pins or will the pcb on the buckpuck kill the power when the kill key is put in. Or do I need to ignore the R ports on the puck and wire straight like the recharge port diagram.

Brandon Wire.jpg

Came up with this after posting, anyone see any problems?

[Strydur]

Depends.. if you have all MWS parts then go battery>recharge port>buckpuck. For the AV switch LED just plug it into the recharge port terminals on the buckpuck and it will be on anytime the kill key is pulled.