Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 20

Thread: Build Log: Manadono's '01-01' (CF8)

  1. #1

    Default Build Log: Manadono's '01-01' (CF8)

    I think 01-01 is going to be a temporary name for it.

    Hello TCSS forum, and welcome to my build log!

    I spent hours trying to convince myself a Graflex build would be too cliche, and it worked! Although, this saber build does pull a lot of design influence from the Vader area of lightsabers (Anakin, Vader, Starkiller and these two custom sabers I saw on google image search http://i.imgur.com/Zk4K5IW.jpg . If anyone knows who built them let me know, they're awesome!)...

    Anyway I pulled up the MHS builder and threw together a few concepts. I originally had the MHS Graflex shaped emitter on but I thought that a different emitter and a shroud would actually be much cooler, so I changed it out for Style 1 with the idea I would put a slanted end shroud over it to achieve the same sort of feeling. I also spent literally hours switching out frag and ribbed grip sections in and out of the design, as well as windowed sections by the emitter. I later scrapped the ribbing and windows for fluting and a choke. The final MHS builder stage looks like this:



    The fluting mirrors the rubber strips on the Anakin and Vader sabers and the choke will allow the shroud to create that kooky cut away look on the Starkiller (but without the crystal reveal :sadface:). I decided at this point that I wanted a mid-forward mounted speaker and the choke would be the optimal point at which to let the sound out. I originally considered ventilating kind of in-line with the saber, so the sound would scoot out forward and hit the other side of the choke and it'd be great. However, looking at the internals of the part and considering (best case scenario) it won't be me drilling these holes, I decided it would be less of a challenge to simply ventilate the choke itself with six small holes evenly spaced (two beneath the shroud, two facing down and the last two perpendicular to the 'top' of the saber). I also drew up a parts list of the items I would need to build the saber (including some low level electronics!).

    The parts list is as follows:
    http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Vi...e-76805c785d45

    [saber body]
    MHS Blade holder 1
    MHS Choke 1 short
    3" Double female connector
    Double ended male connector 1
    3" Fluted double female connector
    MPS Pommel 4
    MPS Insert 13

    [switches and sockets]
    Activation box 18
    16mm AV Momentary gold plated switch
    16mm AV Momentary red ring switch
    3.5mm RICE port
    2.1mm Recharge port

    [other electronic]
    7.4v Li-ion 2600mAh 18650
    RGRb Tri CREE LED star
    2W 28mm Bass Speaker

    [other]
    MHS Heatsink and optic
    MPS C clip
    Brass Covertec clip
    8-32 socket head screw (for covertec)
    Kill plug 4
    8-32 gold thumb screw (x2)

    [soundboard]
    CF8 (I was originally banking on a 7.5, but hey!)
    CeX (for CeXy FoC and colour mixing!!)

    And then I joined this forum! I took my idea apart in my head and put it all back together piece by piece, constructing the BEST prototype you could ever imagine:



    I'm still not sure about the collar on the shroud, it was originally open at the bottom, but I felt like I wanted a bit more of that graflexy feel... Anyway, this stick of card has a fairly in-depth teardown of the saber, where threads are, where screws and holes need to go, how long each part is etc. and I'm sure it will still be helpful when I start putting together (maybe not)!

    Anyway, I've started getting things in for the build, first of all this!



    for CeXy FoC :>

    See you in the next update!

  2. #2

    Default

    In my opinion that emitter looks amazing with a slanted shroud. Good luck with your build!

  3. #3

    Default

    Can you pay Tim to drill the shroud holes where you first wanted them? That sounded like a great idea, and your original vision.

  4. #4

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by NanoRex View Post
    In my opinion that emitter looks amazing with a slanted shroud. Good luck with your build!
    thanks, my main real worry is not burning the 'toast'. I'll bring my A game on the shroud! (frantically refreshing Erv's site)

    Quote Originally Posted by Darth Nurse View Post
    Can you pay Tim to drill the shroud holes where you first wanted them? That sounded like a great idea, and your original vision.
    kind of, I can't afford to make 40 or so separate orders at TCSS so I'll be ordering through JQ sabers who offer hole drilling and tapping too. If I'm nice enough they may drill these extraneous holes as well as the ones I actually need hehe. Otherwise, I have a drill and a hobby vice, I might be able to squeeze it out of myself. Either way, I'll make it work!!

  5. #5

    Default [update]

    So, I've booked in with JQ Sabers to hook me up with all the sweet TCSS MHS parts I need, but they said it might be a while. In the meantime, I've been browsing wires and cables and buying some extra parts! First up in probably a long blog of mail calls is my order from amazon.com for polycarbonate tube and rod!



    I ordered these international economy (which quoted 12-17 working days) and it's been like, 4 days tops. Whoever delivered this wanted it delivered like woah! Anyway, I did some tests with my low-lumen LEDs I have just kicking around, and the diffusion on the rod might be ju~ust enough, with some greebly on top as an emitter, to stop a Tri-cree from insta-blinding people. Both pieces came precision made, and fit into each other snugly (which isn't necessary, but a good sign it'll fit into MHS parts too). I can't tell you how hard it is to find stuff like this in the UK guys, really tricky! The tube looks like it'll be great for building a wire-shroud / chassis for the oodles of electronics that go into sabers. I picked PC because (I literally couldn't find precision diameter anything else and it was cheap) because it has phenomenal physical properties, both in tensile strength and rigidity. The rod is a solid 1" piece which will probably never break, and the tube has 1/8" thick walls which will make it durable and allow it to be cut with slots to fixture parts into.

    I guess I can start preparing pieces to make the blade plug now, and it will be filled with lovely greeblies!

  6. #6

    Default

    Have you thought about using the choke for the crystal chamber? You couldn't get a lot of greeblies in there but it's easy enough to cut out a window. I like to use these discs on either end. It's not visible from a cut out window and there are plenty of places to run crystal posts, rods, etc.

  7. #7

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by CET View Post
    Have you thought about using the choke for the crystal chamber? You couldn't get a lot of greeblies in there but it's easy enough to cut out a window. I like to use these discs on either end. It's not visible from a cut out window and there are plenty of places to run crystal posts, rods, etc.
    I was literally just thinking of having a crystal reveal in the choke, but it's not top on my list of stuff to do. I'm mainly getting this saber build done for use, and a crystal chamber is just one small filamented item that can snap off and end up going into the speaker, or LED wiring, or out the sound holes, or just rattling about annoyingly and having to be fixed. Plus there's the whole how it gets mounted. I don't think there's a comfortable way of doing it really :/ ,the plate it anchors to would always be in the way of something.

    But I am thinking of working on one as like a follow up project, for sure! when i know 100% how my saber goes together, and I'm ok with adding more stuff to it. Until then, it's meditating in the crystal caves :>

  8. #8

    Default

    Just an FYI on crystal chamber stability, I've been dueling with this one for several months now. I check on the internals from time to time and it's good to go. Sorry for the lousy picture quality, I was using my tablet at the time, and it tends to give me lots of JJ Abrahms style lens flares.

    Last edited by CET; 02-11-2016 at 06:08 PM.

  9. #9

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by CET View Post
    Just an FYI on crystal chamber stability, I've been dueling with this one for several months now. I check on the internals from time to time and it's good to go. Sorry for the lousy picture quality, I was using my tablet at the time, and it tends to give me lots of JJ Abrahms style lens flares.

    hehe, yeah I guess they can be sturdy, I mean, I've seen some crazy chambers out there that are 'duelling certified' I just don't trust myself to make one hahaha. Like I'm also not so keen on having windows in a choke too :<. At least with the CF8, I can wire it up and have spare pads ready to light a crystal when the time comes :>.

  10. #10

    Default

    You can't see it in the pic, but the crystal chamber windows are covered in the inside with an electronics shielding tube to keep the dirt and stuff out.

    I know what you mean about chokes though. There's little room to do stuff and you have to worry about structural integrity. I'm currently doing 3 windows in a type 3 choke, which are going to be 1/2" wide. Should be fine for dueling.

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •