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Thread: Wiring Diagrams Please?

  1. #11

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    It looks like you've wired the LEDs on the main channel in parallel. As long as you're using a 7.4 volt battery solution, you would get longer run time if you wire them in series.

    Series wiring: main channel positive wire connects to first LED positive. First LED negative connects to second LED positive. Second LED negative connects to main channel negative.

  2. #12

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    Yeah, not sure why the forum shrinks it, it's actually huge. Yeah, putting the resistors there. I'll do the main dice resistor fix.

    Thanks

  3. #13

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    Did you mean the resistors on the board where the accent LED's are? Tim at custom sabers said you didn't have to. Or did you mean on the switch positives to the board?

  4. #14

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    The forum will shrink some images when you attach them if they're too big. To avoid this you can use an image hosting site (most here use Photobucket) and insert an image hosted there.

  5. #15

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    Okay, I reconfigured my diagram into 2 options:1) the LED main red dice wired in parallel and 2) the LED main red dice wired in series. It was recommended to wire in series to have a longer battery life. I added all the resistors so everyone could comment and I could remove or leave what is necessary. Questions I need answering: Will wiring the red LED dice in series sacrifice brightness to the blade? Do I need all the resistors? If not, which resistors need to be removed? If I need resistors for each of the LED's on the Ign and Aux Switches, should I have them on the board, or should I bridge the footprints and put the resistors outside on the actual wire?

    Here is the link to the diagrams:

    http://s1024.photobucket.com/user/js...1xv80.png.html


    http://s1024.photobucket.com/user/js...bgt7j.png.html

  6. #16

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    You can keep the Reds wired in series, it won't hurt your brightness.

    The main LEDs don't need the resistor, but the FoC die DOES.

    For the AV switch LEDs, you can do it either way - it depends o your comfort level.
    TCSS MODERATOR
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    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  7. #17

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    Hello,

    Back again. I'm going with a PC V4 Sound Board. I'm going with the Pseudo Color Mixing option for wiring. I was hoping to use a Red, Red, Green, Royal blue quad LED. Does anyone know if LED Supply can do a custom Cree XML quad? It looks like they can do a Luxeon Rebel quad, but all the LED's are separate. The Cree XML quad has all the LED's in the center, don't know if that matters or not. Thoughts? I'm willing to do a Luxeon RGB tri, but I want to make the brightest I possibly can with Red being the dominant color. Thought the quad would be better. Lastly, I did a Pseudo Color Mixing wiring diagram using a quad LED with the Red LED's in series. Want to make sure I got it right. Here is the link:

    http://s1024.photobucket.com/user/js...pfkv2.png.html


    Here's the pic using the Luxeon Tri Rebel:

    http://s1024.photobucket.com/user/js...p8lin.png.html

  8. #18

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    As FJK is fond of saying, more dice does not necessarily mean more light. The difference between 3 and 4 dice is rarely noticeable, and oftentimes the 3 dice solution is brighter. You've got to consider the optics, LED placement, and several other factors.

    There's a good reason why the top sabersmiths are using Tri-Crees and not quads.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  9. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by Silver Serpent View Post
    As FJK is fond of saying, more dice does not necessarily mean more light. The difference between 3 and 4 dice is rarely noticeable, and oftentimes the 3 dice solution is brighter. You've got to consider the optics, LED placement, and several other factors.

    There's a good reason why the top sabersmiths are using Tri-Crees and not quads.
    Awesome! Thanks for the advice! The tri solution seems easier to me anyways and I can one-stop-shop my parts list with the custom saber shop!

  10. #20

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    A few more questions:

    -Can you use a heat-sink by itself without a module?
    -Should/Does the blade come in contact with the heat-sink when placed in the blade holder?
    -What resistors are the best ones to use for a Pseudo Color Mixing wiring scheme on the PC V4 Sound Baord? Link Here (see pg. 29):

    http://www.plecterlabs.com/Media/Doc....5-revA-GB.pdf

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