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Thread: Potentially fried board. How to confirm?

  1. #1

    Default Potentially fried board. How to confirm?

    Hello,

    So, the wiring layout, issue, and troubleshooting steps that have been taken can be found on a Reddit thread here: https://www.reddit.com/r/lightsabers...just_making_a/

    Seeing as it appears the wiring is solid, I am starting to suspect that the board itself may have been fried due to previously bridged solder pads and incorrect wiring, however I do not know what would need to be checked with a multimeter to confirm this.

    Thank you,

  2. #2

    Default

    If the LED immediately comes on when you pull the kill key, you have a ground or a short somewhere.
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  3. #3

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Forgetful Jedi Knight View Post
    If the LED immediately comes on when you pull the kill key, you have a ground or a short somewhere.
    Right, but I've already confirmed that no bridge exists on the pads, and I haven't added solder to any other part of the board, so I am unsure of what traces and/or chip pins need tested to determine where the short is located.

  4. #4

    Default

    Take some good, close up, high wuality pictures of your whole setup, and post them, and we’ll look them over for you.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by Forgetful Jedi Knight View Post
    Take some good, close up, high wuality pictures of your whole setup, and post them, and we’ll look them over for you.
    Here's a few to start out with: https://imgur.com/a/ueOYKBJ

    Let me know if there are any other pics you want.

    Thank you,

  6. #6

    Default

    Well, the first issue I see is that you have a latching switch. The NB can only be used with a momentary switch.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  7. #7

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Forgetful Jedi Knight View Post
    Well, the first issue I see is that you have a latching switch. The NB can only be used with a momentary switch.
    It is a momentary switch.

  8. #8

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by TheMohawkNinja View Post
    It is a momentary switch.
    Please take a close of up the pins (bottom of the switch), because I believe you are incorrect. Also, what you have described would be consistent with using a latching switch.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  9. #9

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Forgetful Jedi Knight View Post
    Please take a close of up the pins (bottom of the switch), because I believe you are incorrect. Also, what you have described would be consistent with using a latching switch.
    https://imgur.com/a/wQRk3zO

    I would like to note that (A) I have a known latching switch from the same manufacturer, and it clearly functions mechanically differently (the known latching switch physically stays down when pressed until pressed a second time, whereas this switch always returns to an unpressed position when pressure is released), (B) I have confirmed the momentary functionality by means of probing the NO1 and C pins on the switch while in resistance mode, and I only receive a reading while the button is pressed down, and (C) the pinout on the known latching switch and this switch are identical, so I am not sure if the pinout will tell you anything in this particular case.

    It may be worth noting that the switch is the only non-TCSS part, in-case that helps

  10. #10

    Default

    When you have something that is normal open or normally closed, that’s basically a latching switch. I would try replacing it with a real momentary switch and see what happens.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

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