Well, the only real benifit of Li-ion batteries is that you can recharge them, and they take up less space. Since this build doesn't have sound you should be fine using 2 AAs per amber LED.
Yes, you will need a different resistor with the AA batteries. Here is a good calculator: http://ledcalc.com/ Set the input voltage to 3 volts, and the LED voltage to 2 volts, with 1000ma of current.
I calculated that you will need a 1.2 Ohm, 2 watt resistor for each LED.
"Everyone who drinks this water will be thirsty again, but whomever drinks the water I give him will never thirst."
ok thank you guys for the info and speedy response!
Will probably go with that then.
I must say i love this community already lol. Very nice, informative, and quick to help.
In your first post, you said you weren't interested in blades just yet.
Are you planning on or have you bought a couple hilt safety plugs?
(You know, to avoid blinding yourself / other people)
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/1-...plug-P571.aspx
Do you hear that?
That is the sound of a thousand terrible things headed this way.
Yeah i did remember those...but now im conflicted on either the blades or plugs...or both.
At this point i really just want to get the blades so i might just go that route instead.
I would go ahead and get the blades. It will save on shipping in the long run, and you will want to actually swing the saber around, after all that work you put into it.
"Everyone who drinks this water will be thirsty again, but whomever drinks the water I give him will never thirst."
My thoughts exactly
may get plugs too for when just showing i off to friends around campus without blades.
quick question, you say i need 1.2 ohm 2 watt resistors. I only see 1.2 ohm 3 watt resistors in store (unless im blind) would those work the same? just not sure of the wattage rating changes things or if thats just its limit.
The wattage would be a minimum. You would be fine with a 3W resistor.Originally Posted by Hermitjensen
My thoughts exactly
may get plugs too for when just showing i off to friends around campus without blades.
quick question, you say i need 1.2 ohm 2 watt resistors. I only see 1.2 ohm 3 watt resistors in store (unless im blind) would those work the same? just not sure of the wattage rating changes things or if thats just its limit.
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"Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
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ok thank you, thats what i thought but wanted to be sure.
now that blades were mentioned i have to ask...difference in corbin style and the TCSS ones?
and what the quad and double wrap mean?
and so far my hilt is 18.25in and i believe im set on getting 26in blades? is that about right for a staff?
Since you seem to be building a resistored stunt that does not have a soundboard/driver the Corbin blade style would not give you any functional advantage now, but might if you upgrade later.
FYI: the Corbin style blades have a special striated diffuser film [originally produced by Corbin Das] inside which, in combination with a soundcard/LED driver capable of Pulse Width Modulation dimming of the LED, can produce a kind of pseudo extend/retract illusion [more visible with the pseudo-retract imo]...the TCSS style blades have a translucent plastic diffuser tube inside instead of the Corbin film.
The quad and double wrap refers to how many layers or 'wraps around' inside the blade tube for the Corbin film in Corbin style blades. Some people using Corbin style blades like the stronger 'core effect' and bright base-flare of light near the bladeholder with a double-wrap that simulates the look of Original Trilogy movie posters but others prefer the greater evenness in light brightness down through the length of the blade and less bright base flare of a quad-wrap.
Other people prefer the TCSS style blade and yet others prefer a translucent white polycarbonate blade instead of clear poly-c with diffuser...its mostly a matter of personal aesthetic taste really.
Last edited by Onli-Won Kanomi; 04-28-2015 at 11:13 AM.
Ok, sorry to kick another dead horse but just wanted to ask one last question before the sale.
For this saber staff im attempting, i am planning to get the coupler that has slots to see through, and I have a (strangely shaped) quartz crystal and a 5mm blue LED.
Now if i did my math right which most likely i didnt lol
If i used a 6v, 4 AA (or AAA) battery setup for one half of the saber only, could i run that blue 5mm LED with a 100ohm resistor and the cree with a 3.9 ohm resistor in parallel? or did i use that LED calculator (and my knowledge of electronics) incorrectly?
I just want to give this saber something besides the blades to light up and this was the first to come to mind.
Last edited by Hermitjensen; 06-18-2015 at 01:02 PM.
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