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Thread: MR FX sound modules schematics and discussions

  1. #41
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    Rhyen Skytracker's Avatar
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    Also keep in mind that when installed in the saber the hilt is part of the heat sink too and every LED will get a little hot.

    Live long and...I mean May the force be with you. http://saberconcepts.50.forumer.com/index.php

  2. #42

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    I know, this is my sixth custom saber. The led was getting unusually hot. Using a 2.2 Ohm 2 Watt resistor solved the problem.
    "I'd rather be hated for who I am, than loved for who i am not."

  3. #43

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    Hello guys, question to this sound module:
    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Thorn View Post


    Does anyone get this type running? I wired it classic way: Brown to positive LED all others to negativ LED. I used original 5 connector/6 batteries battery pack.
    But when I connected any combination of switch wires nothing happend. I'm sure the LED is working. Any hint?

    RL-547B.jpg

  4. #44

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    What board is that? Where did you get it? I need a bit more info to help. Just to hazzard a guess at this point, there should probably be a clash sensor hook up somewhere in the bunch for the led. That is likely one of your issues.
    Last edited by Ari-Jaq Xulden; 05-02-2013 at 01:32 PM.

    Hokey religions and ancient weapons are no match for a good blaster at your side, kid.

  5. #45

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    I bought it in auction. Im not sure what exact type it is. It should be Master Replicas because it is using 5 connector battery pack and I recall it should be master Windu. Clash sensor is hooked up so no problem here. For complete assembly look on photo:

    IMG_4164-001.jpg

    (Dont look for brown colored wire for positive led, I replace it.)

  6. #46

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    Ah, now we are getting somewhere. Okay the diagram for the link is broken. Here Is the link to the thread. Maybe some one will chime in and re-post the picture. IIRC you use the two purple and the grey wires, but you may try a different combination of the four, say 2 purples and green. You need either a latching SPDT or DPDT switch. That particular board requires a NO and NC contact to work. Hope that helps.

    Hokey religions and ancient weapons are no match for a good blaster at your side, kid.

  7. #47

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    Ok It looks that the board is dead. Still nothing even after I connected switch according to diagram. If I have exact same model I would try to find if there is some demaged part but I dont. So thanks for help.

  8. #48

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    Pm Zook. He does repairs.

    Hokey religions and ancient weapons are no match for a good blaster at your side, kid.

  9. #49

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    Hi guys, i have the board of an MR LUKE ANH 2007 which looks like this;

    IMG_7795.jpg

    And it doesnt run. I suspect that when I took my multimeter to the batter/speaker housing i only got 2.4volts coming from it. Is that why it isnt working? Should it be 4+volts?

    IMG_7763.JPG
    IMG_7764.JPG
    IMG_7765.JPG

  10. #50

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    Couldnt find exactly where to put this...but I have a yoda lightsaber that lit up but made no sound. Thanks to this fourm I was able to disassemble and troubleshoot my issues. I was able to get sound to the speaker but the problem is, the sound is very very faint/weak. Why would that be? Poor connection somewhere or a power issue?

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