steampunk light saber.

[mrknify]

lightsaber_on_off.jpg
parts from shop, now my idea was a touch caber, but i'm having issues, so i'm using a latching av switch (red) in the pommel...

as you all know about the twisty wire issues i'm working on the flashlight fix, the connection is broken until the saber is fully assembled.
now the easiest way to do thid is use the led wires to connect to the "adapter" that will allow (with a carrier) removal of the lower half the saber.

[mrknify]

2012-06-21 19.09.17.jpgthis is a good pic of the orange/red colour of my saber.
love the evil eye look with my leather shroud on it.

12012-04-24 21.25.52.jpg22012-06-17 19.02.34.jpg342012-06-22 18.30.47.jpg

ok now thats the board from the "ultimate fx" vader from toys r us. it comes with blade attached, and the blade will break if you hit stuff with it.

the issue i had is they use hot glue on the back of the board over the wires (cause the wires fall off easily.) in the process of cleaning it up i broke 4 contacts off.
27$ for a silver contact pen (canadian.. and no its not for sale) in the latter 2 pics you can see my repais by adding pins, and the silver on the contact points for repair.

I made sure the contact names were still visable as this will make my experiments work much easier.

image 3 contacts labelled 5, 1, 2 are red, "b" is black just using them you do not need a regulator as they give out less then a buck puck(700mA)

image 4 try+ (very top pin) and try- (on bottom) are for your momentary switch for on/off

the "wm" looking labes (2 on the top section) are for the speaker.

[mrknify]

hasbro2010b.jpg image 3 redeux

ok as you see image #2 has all the untreated leather (ready for dye's and other work.)

i've built my patterns and cut them out stitched to fit.

the handgrip is over a brass sink tubing that was cut for shape the leather holds the tubing onto the hilt but it is still removable.

there is a shroud on the blade holder, in this pic its over some brass but it looks better under it.

the only real issue i have is for the hilt length my blade is too long, so either i'll have to add a 3 inch extension or cut 4 inches off my sword.

[dustunite]

Thats pretty interesting with the leather shroud, I've used it for grips but really low weight. I've used some 10-13 oz for armor but never on a saber. I'd like to see it dyed and stamped or carved, I'll be watching.

[mrknify]

i've got the sizing for the mhs (only) works great on sink tubes (with the mhs bodys.)

i dont have alot of punches right now, but i have what i need to build clean grips. i'm in the middle of making a wellington top hat out of 4-5oz.

the grips on the caber are 4-5oz, with the band(s) at 8oz.

and i'm currently building a "hood" out of 1-1.5 oz pigskin. its nice

[dustunite]

I wanna see the hat!

[mrknify]

UPDATE!!!
new info fron paint removal of led blade.

hasbro2010b.jpg

This is the updated photo, with "non" technical info

it is to help non elec savy guys, and i'm not to savy in terms either. but dopllars to doughnuts the resistor side imma put a buckpuck or somthing.

[mrknify]

I wanna see the hat!

i'm off this week so i'll finish and post a pic.

[mrknify]

wire issue fix, using stereo for switch, and mono plugfor LED

[update]
have the mono plugs, now to build carrier for the electronics.

[mrknify]

Hello all,

I must apolgize, i've been going through my posts, as some kind observent members had suggested, and my general attitude has been poor. For this i must apologize. I will not give any excuses, just the way i have acted was downright agressive, rude, and uncalled for.