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Thread: New style hasbro saber!!! Please help!

  1. #91
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    Rhyen Skytracker's Avatar
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    I am going to see if the toys r us has it in my area, if they do I will put a meter on it tonight and let you know.

    EDIT:

    I have tested an Anakin with a 4.5 V set up (3 akaline batteries and a dummy battery in a 4 AAA pack) I was very disappointed with the results. I tested it with a blue Cree LED. Each of the stock LEDs had an individual circuit ran to it and hooked up to the Cree here are the results:

    Circuit 1: 35 mA
    Circuit 2: 34 mA
    Circuit 3: 35 mA

    Total with all 3 circuits tied together : 104 mA

    So, even though the board has decent sound you will need to use a supplimental driver. I still think it is worth using though.
    Last edited by Rhyen Skytracker; 02-18-2010 at 05:07 PM.

    Live long and...I mean May the force be with you. http://saberconcepts.50.forumer.com/index.php

  2. #92

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rhyen Skytracker View Post
    I am going to see if the toys r us has it in my area, if they do I will put a meter on it tonight and let you know.

    EDIT:

    I have tested an Anakin with a 4.5 V set up (3 akaline batteries and a dummy battery in a 4 AAA pack) I was very disappointed with the results. I tested it with a blue Cree LED. Each of the stock LEDs had an individual circuit ran to it and hooked up to the Cree here are the results:

    Circuit 1: 35 mA
    Circuit 2: 34 mA
    Circuit 3: 35 mA

    Total with all 3 circuits tied together : 104 mA

    So, even though the board has decent sound you will need to use a supplimental driver. I still think it is worth using though.
    Many thanks for the data, Rhyen. Nothing a relay can't fix.
    There's always a bigger fish.

  3. #93

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    Really like the sound, hope i found one at my local store!

  4. #94
    Force Aware noslenpar's Avatar
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    I posted a (bit too long, sorry) video of the new Anikan vs a Force Action Obi-Wan.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FEJ4ws5qBrI

    I don't know if I just got a bad board or something but the Anikan seems to make random clash or motion sounds even when it't just sitting there. Also the swing sounds seemed very out of sync with the motion. The clash sounds seem to cycle through a few different sounds one of which sounds like a blaster. I don't like that. I think the only thing better about the new board is the idle hum, which is a lot better.

    Maybe I'll try a new Obi-Wan and see if that sounds any better.

  5. #95

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    Got an Obi-wan today.
    Most impressive!!! Motion sensor works really well considering that this is a toy.

    I can't wait to dremel this puppy open to put it in the sinktube saber I'm building for my son.

    I saw Matt Thorn mentioned a relay. What type and size would I need for a K2 or lux III. And where would it go in the wiring?

    Edit: just noticed this thread:http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...ead.php?t=9642

    I think it answers my question, Yes?
    Thanks!
    Last edited by Ingchao; 02-20-2010 at 04:44 PM.
    Darth Flatulous

  6. #96

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    So after following this thread for a while now I decided to go with a new Obi Wan instead of the old force action sabers for my new build. I picked up a relay and everything else I'll need to set this up, but then I remembered that since I had originally planned on using a force action when I made my order, I didn't bother getting a resistor for my green P4. Would it be safe to say that I'm gonna need to pick up a resistor to go with my relay for the 2010 Obi Wan board?

  7. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by Azryel View Post
    So after following this thread for a while now I decided to go with a new Obi Wan instead of the old force action sabers for my new build. I picked up a relay and everything else I'll need to set this up, but then I remembered that since I had originally planned on using a force action when I made my order, I didn't bother getting a resistor for my green P4. Would it be safe to say that I'm gonna need to pick up a resistor to go with my relay for the 2010 Obi Wan board?
    Yes, since it'll receive the full current from the battery through the relay, it'll fry if you don't have the resistor.
    "This is the weapon of a Jedi Knight. Not as clumsy or random as a blaster; an elegant weapon for a more civilized age."

  8. #98

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    So I picked up an Obi-Wan about a week ago and I finally sat down and cut it apart and started to go to work on this puppy.

    (3) AAA 4.5V 1000mah
    Seoul P4 Green
    5W 1.5 Ohm resistor

    I went to radioshack and picked up a 5v reed relay for the LED driver and I hooked up one of Tim's premium speakers from the shop, which makes it sound waayyy better and noticeably louder. The reed relay works great but you have to make sure and connect all negative leads or there is not enough current to close the circuit. I also replaced the swing sensor with a ball bearing sensor off of my fried FX board and it fixed the delays and excessive looping of the swing font. Over all I'm impressed with this economy setup except for one thing, the LED still has the flash on clash! I need to do some more reading but is there a setup that will avoid this? Do I need something in addition to the relay or will I need to configure a new setup? Ideas, pointers, or bookmarks would be awesome.

  9. #99

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    Quote Originally Posted by revan1138 View Post
    Over all I'm impressed with this economy setup except for one thing, the LED still has the flash on clash!
    Flash on clash is a highly sought after effect so I assume you mean that the main LED shuts off very briefly when the clash sensor goes off/clash sound plays. That would be very annoying. To fix this, you could direct drive the LED and use a resistor or buckpuck. If the new toy Hasbro saber uses a latching switch, you could replace it with a latching DPDT. If it's momentary, well... that sucks as you would have a latching for the LED and the stock momentary for the sound board.

    Another alternative that may work is to use a DPDT momentary switch and have the main LED and the DPDT momentary switch hooked up to a PCB from a Lighthound keychain flashlight. I have heard of others doing that to use a momentary switch with an FX sound board. The details on that can be found here...

    http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=22399.0

    I hope that helps.

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  10. #100

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    Yes I do mean that the LEDs blink on clash. As for the board switch it is momentary, so I guess that I'm stuck with the blinking without going into more extensive modification. Oh well, not a bad trade off and I suppose I can get used to it.

    Thanks

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