"inner" core question

[rlobrecht]

I like to use the 0.058" wall 6061 T6 tube.

Is that thick enough to support a threaded hole?

[hapki]

It depends on how coarse the threads are. I've used 4-40 screws with them, but only in very low stress applications. I am skeptical that it would hold a switch. I could be wrong.

[jbkuma]

OK for 8-32 and 10-32.. anything coarser probably won't have much left to grab.

[darth.maledous]

Quick question guys; what's the smallest MHS extension that can be used to hold either a pair of "short" 16MM AV switches, or pair of Switch 21's ? I'm not going to incorporate switches into my first inner core design to keep it simple, but I'd like to use the .75" male/female extension, along with a set screw, to hold the core in place. I still need a spot to put the switches though.

Thanks

[Silver Serpent]

The Switch 21's? http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Re...itch-P559.aspx

They're pretty small. You should be able to fit those into the 2" DF section. Maybe even the 1.2" DF section, though you'll probably cut into the threads.

The short AV switches I don't think you can put them opposite each other without a switch box or Bezel. You'd need a longer section for those. They'll fit side by side on a 3" DF no problem.

[rlobrecht]

What about using the tactile switches? They are less than 3/8". The 0.75" extension is all threads through, so you can't get a switch through them without cutting the threads through two parts.

[darth.maledous]

What about using the tactile switches? They are less than 3/8". The 0.75" extension is all threads through, so you can't get a switch through them without cutting the threads through two parts.

You know, I keep forgetting about those tactile switches. A set of those would do just fine for what I had in mind. Thanks rlobrecht.

[Mike1114]

bringing up a dying thread but I have input. I found a plastic J tube at home depot sink tube section that is the perfect OD to fit inside MHS parts. I'll post pic and part number later.

I have a "core" built using this pvc tube and a TCSS #6 battery speaker holder. Grafted them together, 8-32 set screws lock them together. I am using a switch box 20, or 21, whichever is the one that you have to drill your own holes. Using a 12MM AV switch and a recharge port (bought a lot of 10 on amazon for less than sabers shops have them) It also has a crystal chamber in the same area as switch and recharge port. This was not easy cram fu. Ended up having to basically create a crystal chamber that is a half circle so when it slides in it clears the pins/wire for the switch and recharge port on the inside.

My questions is how do you incorporate switches and recharge ports using a completely removable core? Pics would help.

[jdubzw]

bringing up a dying thread but I have input. I found a plastic J tube at home depot sink tube section that is the perfect OD to fit inside MHS parts. I'll post pic and part number later.

I have a "core" built using this pvc tube and a TCSS #6 battery speaker holder. Grafted them together, 8-32 set screws lock them together. I am using a switch box 20, or 21, whichever is the one that you have to drill your own holes. Using a 12MM AV switch and a recharge port (bought a lot of 10 on amazon for less than sabers shops have them) It also has a crystal chamber in the same area as switch and recharge port. This was not easy cram fu. Ended up having to basically create a crystal chamber that is a half circle so when it slides in it clears the pins/wire for the switch and recharge port on the inside.

My questions is how do you incorporate switches and recharge ports using a completely removable core? Pics would help.

I'm curious about this also - I just built my first saber, but after removing the battery a couple of times I'm really thinking I want to change it to a rechargable setup and change around my wiring completely. I'd imagine if you wanted the entire core to be removable and make up the interior of the saber as one complete piece, you'd end up cutting a groove in the sink tube chassis that the switch would slide between. That would also make it really snug in place I would imagine. I'm not sure how you'd handle the recharge port though. I've seen people talk about how you can measure it so that the holes line up perfectly once it's totally threaded on but I have no experience on how to do that.

I'm personally after just making a nice internal chassis that would hold things in place as one single unit versus assembling a bunch of chassis discs. Also, since I'm using a Pico Crumble, there isn't a chassis disk specifically for that board, so the fit would be pretty lose. Specifically, I'd like to find a way to wire the recharge port into the pommel and thread it through the MHS grill that contains the large center hole. The 28mm speaker holder pretty much takes up the entire space though, which is making this a bit challenging. Could you perhaps have two small grooves on the sides of the speaker holder that could run those wires around the speaker holder and into the pommel?

[rlobrecht]

I've seen people talk about how you can measure it so that the holes line up perfectly once it's totally threaded on but I have no experience on how to do that.

Check out this video. http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...Threaded-parts

Could you perhaps have two small grooves on the sides of the speaker holder that could run those wires around the speaker holder and into the pommel?

There are plenty of people who have cut channels in the speaker holder.