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Thread: Hasbro Force action/Corbin's Board

  1. #31

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    I would just like to mention that if you wire in a lock up button do the corbin board with a clash sensor your not gonna get a lock up clash sounding effect like on the crystal focus unless you wired the lock up button to the mr clash sensor also and corbin dosent recamend that. Then teh chances of getting a constent clash/lockup effect when holding the button chances are it wont work.
    Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex. - Albert Einstein

    Reaganomics not Obamanomics


  2. #32

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    Hasid,

    Fender made the point that I would get the clash, clash, clash sound. I understand that it won't sound like a really good blade lock up.

  3. #33

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    Is it possible to just add the driver and hasbro boards into the electronics starter kits in the TCSS store? I know I'd have to get the proper switch for clash effects and a speaker also. Thanks.

  4. #34

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    Well guys here's a diagram I whipped up...The only I'm having is where to place the 2nd momentary switch. Can someone take a look and either give me the proper placement?? I am going to remove the FOC sensor from the Hasbro board and wire it to Corbin's board as Darth Fender staed he did.

    I did uses a DPDT momentary slide switch because that will work nicely with the Dooku switch for the hilt I'm making. I'll probably hide the mini tactile FOC switch near the bottom of the handle just about flush with the grip so it will be easily assessible while still remaining pretty much hidden.



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  5. #35
    Jedi Padawan strengthofrage's Avatar
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    The second momentary switch gets wired in parallel on Corbin's board where you connected the Hasbro clash sensor switch I believe.

    Also, you mentioned a DPDT momentary slide switch... the one in your picture doesn't look like it is momentary... I could definitely be wrong though.
    "Run when you have to, fight when you must, rest when you can."


  6. #36

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    If it has 6 connectors it's a DPDT momentary...These look very close to the other but they only have 3 connectors on the bottom of the switch.

  7. #37

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    Ok for the secons switch, the mini tactile that can be soldered to the wires going to the clash sensor?

  8. #38

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    Yes. But keep in mind that the clash sensor is only gonna work about 1/4 of the time. I think it has to do with the delay for the Corbin driver board. It doesn't do the clash effect immediately. There is a delay of a few milliseconds, and the sensor will have to maintain contact for that whole time.
    That's my theory, Corbin could probably shed more light on that.
    Darth Fender
    Sith Lord

    You over estimate my FLOWERS!

  9. #39

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    Ok

    A dpdt switch dosent have to have 6 pins, Ive seen a couple with 4 pins. I would suggest using a latching switch. I had a diagram to make corbins momentary board latching but I cant find it now.

    So just get used to holding the power button all the time.

    The corbin board will clash flash with the other boards clash sound but sometimes it dosent alwase work sometimes it will not flash with the clash sometimes it will. It has to do with placment of the sensors in the hilt.

    Corbin strongly recamended me to not put in a c&L button with the sensor and a sound board. something about mixed voltage signals and essentally somethings gonna fry down the road.

    I say again even if it works and stays alive your not gonna get a clash sound when holding the C&L button unless you wire the soundboards clash sensor in with the switch and again thats mixed voltage signals.

    All your gonna get with a C&L button on the corbin board is the lock up effect, your not gonna get a clash sound when pressing the button.

    With the diagram thats up there you will get a clash sound and a flash when the blade hits something but if you hold the lockup button all its gonna do is flash the blade.

    So looking at it, wiring in a C&L button is gonna be pointless.
    Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex. - Albert Einstein

    Reaganomics not Obamanomics


  10. #40

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    Hasid,

    I have read through the forums and alot of people state use a momentary due to the Hasro board being a "momentary board". That's why when i order his board it is going to be a momentary board, not a latching.


    oh boy I have so many people telling me so many things I think my heas going to blow up

    If someone could modify my diagram and repost it with how I should do this that would be great. I am good at seeing how things will work better than I am when I keep getting all types of answers.

    I don't mean to sound like I jerk here but I feel like I keep getting conflicting answers.

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