try this one
http://cgi.ebay.com/8-BRASS-Momentar...713.m153.l1262
Here's a good example of it - make the hilt look skinny - but it seems to work.
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...highlight=tobu
try this one
http://cgi.ebay.com/8-BRASS-Momentar...713.m153.l1262
Here's a good example of it - make the hilt look skinny - but it seems to work.
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...highlight=tobu
The picture isn't showing up for me, but I'm pretty sure those are the ones I bought.
They're crap.
I got them because I wanted to sand the chrome off to expose the brass underneath. When I got them, I sanded one down, only to expose the plastic underneath. If there's brass in them, I couldn't find it.
I suppose that as a momentary switch, they will do what they are supposed to do, but they didn't work for what I wanted. I have a bag of them if you want to try one.
Sweet design man.
WHAT THE %*#& IS AN ALUMINIUM FALCON?!
sweet design, couple of things to consider though:
electronics, if you want sound this might not have enough room, hell even just light might be really tight.
also like others have said, you should be careful with the blade holder, giving it more area where it's fully enclosed will really help the strength of it, otherwise you might break it if you try to duel with it.
The only way that could possably work is if some how the blade went deaper into the hilt. I suspect thats how that one guys saber was done. Iam sure his blade socket depth was deaper than 2".
Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex. - Albert Einstein
Reaganomics not Obamanomics
Let me get this straight, are you guys worried about the aluminum blade holder or the blade itself breaking?
I think they're more concerned about the tines breaking off. A PolyC blade will put up with quite a bit of punishment, but by effectively dividing the blade holder up in to eighths you're drastically reducing it's strength. If you halved the depths of the cuts, then that would probably leave enough metal to maintain it's strength.
"At last we will reveal ourselves to the Jedi, at last we shall have a cup of tea and a nice chat"
(Well what did you expect? I am English after all )
Maybe you can get tim to make you a custom bladeholder/extention where the blade socket will go deaper but still look like what you want.
Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex. - Albert Einstein
Reaganomics not Obamanomics
Ok, the first image is a LED Holder 4 simply modified to add the ID and OD chamfers to the end:
The next image is a LED Holder 4 modified to shorten the tines, similar to my original concept.
After viewing the mods, I might lean towards just the ID and OD chamfers, as it makes for a smoother saber, less sharp edges, plus with the shortened tines it loses some of the aggressiveness that the original long-tined version had.
Any comments?
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