Driving accent LEDs... with or without main battery pack...

[Novastar]

Ola.

Ok, so this question might be a weird one. Sort of a "what's your preference", and/or "what's best for efficiency".

SETUP #1:

* Battery pack 1... powers the board (if applicable), main Luxeon AND smaller low-powered LED indicators

SETUP #2:

* Battery pack 1... powers the board (if applicable) and main Luxeon
* Battery pack 2... powers the smaller low-powered LED indicators (a switch could even be used to turn them on and off)

Does anyone have any preferences or comments on efficiency?

A little more information--I realize this would be irrelevant on Erv's CF, so that board isn't in question here. Also, the idea for the battery pack 2 is to be more of a 3v coin cell or akin to that in size and voltage... so that the LED indicators don't have to be resisted like crazy and waste energy... and also so they don't "steal" precious runtime from the main Luxeon (as little as that might be).

I could be WAAAAY off in my thinking here, but... it's why I'm asking. I hope it helps others understand the options available when thinking about LED indicators.

[Obi-Dar Ke-Gnomie]

My personal preference is to run it all off one battery. The extra 20 mA draw is, in my opinion, negligible in the big picture.

The extra wiring, (what would you do, run it through a DPDT switch?), extra hilt space, and hassle aren't worth it to save like 2% of your run time. In my system, that means I get 72 seconds less run time. Big deal.

Just curious, how would you physically connect the coin cell into the system anyway?

[Atomic]

I've actually been thinking about this myself. In my second MHS saber, I'm hoping to run a crystal and an indicator LED, both off a coin battery. Coin battery holders are $1 and truthfully, you could just tape the wires to it.

Mt trouble is finding a small dpst switch. I want a switch that has two on circuits and one off and no middle position. Plus, it needs to be round, since I have no idea how I would cut a square hole for a rocker type switch

I like these




But I think they will be WAY too big (16mm cut hole, screw length 18mm)

[DarthFender]

Plus, it needs to be round, since I have no idea how I would cut a square hole for a rocker type switch

[HIJACK]You could always dremmel a square hole for a rocker switch, I personally like the look of a round switch/button better, but square is doable.[/HIJACK]

[Dark Helmet]

i prefer to keep all led's running from the same battery. i don't want to have to open my hilt all the time just to switch batteries. i've had a few mishaps with debris getting in the mhs threads and ruined an entire saber, so i prefer to keep my others closed unless i need a critical repair.

[Ghostbat]

Ola.

Ok, so this question might be a weird one. Sort of a "what's your preference", and/or "what's best for efficiency".

SETUP #1:

* Battery pack 1... powers the board (if applicable), main Luxeon AND smaller low-powered LED indicators

SETUP #2:

* Battery pack 1... powers the board (if applicable) and main Luxeon
* Battery pack 2... powers the smaller low-powered LED indicators (a switch could even be used to turn them on and off)

I agree that the draw of the indicator LEDs isn't going to cause a terribly noticeable drain on the batteries so the only reason to go with a second battery would be for circuit simplification. It's a lot easier to run a second battery but, back on the other side again, you will be sacrificing a little space.

I have no idea how I would cut a square hole for a rocker type switch

What I do is mark out the rectangle, drill a hole the width (or slightly under) of that rectangle, Dremel out as much of the remaining space as possible, then use a file to clean up the edges and corners. There may be a faster and leaner way to do it, but my machine shop tools/skills are limited

[Atomic]

What I do is mark out the rectangle, drill a hole the width (or slightly under) of that rectangle, Dremel out as much of the remaining space as possible, then use a file to clean up the edges and corners. There may be a faster and leaner way to do it, but my machine shop tools/skills are limited

I think that's my answer, since I need a DPST switch to an Lux 3 on a separate circuit from the MR board, so everything goes on at once.

/bow

[chase]

I like the idea of running it off a separate battery pack, that way when the saber is on your belt, you can switch the accent leds up and it will have them glowing without having the main led on.

[Atomic]

If you were going to belt wear it, stick a safety plug in and then everything will light up