Thanks a bunch NC.
Thanks a bunch NC.
I have a question, how would I get a maglight flashlight switch to work? I have never taken one apart really except to change the batteries or fix the bulb.
I'm guessing that the switch would look like any other. Positive and negative post out, latching type. Just to make sure you might want to pm some of the guys that made Maglite sabers. I think there are a couple in the custom gallery.
Man, now you have me wanting to take my Maglite apart.
I wish I had a maglight to take apart.
My wife is going out with the girls tonight so with my son crawling all over I probably wont get a chance to check out that switch. I think I have an old one lying around at work that I can break down, instead of possibly breaking the one that I have at home. I'll try to post a pic or two tomorrow.
Thanks a bunch for helping me with the switches KF.
Hi, For anyone who has done a led graflex, do you think this switch would work. or something similar to it. I do not have the flash gun yet. As soon as the irs gets on the ball, I will have one. I am just wondering if it will fit inside the groove on Tim's graflex blade holder. And if it will work under the red push button of the graflex. I do not know how the graflex button works. Thanks in advance.
It'll work fine. Like I said in PMs I have a few tactiles. That is about the size to fit easily in the groove. I'm not sure on height for that one but 5-7 mm works well.
They would work in a graflex because the button is just that, the button. You can mount a switch under it.
RED LEADER Standing by!
On the matter of switches, I'd like to show off this latest of mine, I think some people might find the technique usefull.
I'm slowly transforming my King Sol into a fully equipped (read buttered toasted) saber, and one of the issue was the switch (or lack of space for one)
Starting with a small square switch I got from APEM, but its the exact same model you can scavenge from VCRs or other dead equipment.
as you can see I folded its tabs so it will fit in the blade socket area - I have about no room in there.
It still goes out, but that's what we want - there's going to be something over it and the switch needs to still be accessible.
A friend of mine molded a bit of his anakin rubies saber - playdoh mould, dollar store epoxy for the material
nice start - only need a little work.
cut the piece in the proper place
first hole. One thing most saber makers should learn to do is pierce and tap holes - no need for bolts when the hilt is taped to hold bolts in place. A tap handle is about 10$ and the drill bit / tab is about 10$ as well... but the result is a lot more impressive and its a lot more enjoyable. I see it as an investment. I used 4/40 bolts in there.
here's the hole for the switch. You might think its ugly, but there's a plan!!
I scavanged a rubber button from a dollar store LED flashlight. you most likely could get a smaller one from a dollar store laser pointer ^_^
2nd hole, 2nd tapped hole in the hilt, 2nd 4/40 bolt... holds in place nicely and strongly.
Ok, its not straight, I'll have to work on that. I should really get a drill press. Anyway, it gives you more ideas of things you can do for your lightsaber switches.
Hope someone finds this info useful.
-Mars
Embrace the luxeon side of the Force... to bring light, into lightsabers
That's awsome Mars. That gives me many ideas for one of my sabers that I'm having issues trying to locate a switch.
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