I'm about to start my 2nd Proffieboard build (and 2nd Crossguard build) and wanted to do more of a true step-by-step WIP for this one. This is only my third saber build, but I learned a lot on my Prizm Crossguard & Proffieboard Graflex that I want to bring into this saber. I have a lot of modifications planned for this one, both in the set up but also the finishes and "accuracy". This will be a little trial-and-error along the way as I have a lot of things planned in my head but also have realistic expectations that some may not got 100% as planned (which I've experienced on the other two builds but didn't document as much). This will be a long project, I plan to take it slow and check everything over multiple times, but I'm psyched at the potential end result.
I have a lot of modifications in my head for this build but I'll cover each one as it "comes to life".
For a start point I am planning to take my "backup battery" plan from my Graflex to the next level for this saber. I'll be using two 2 21700s in this saber with one as primary and the other as backup. They will be controlled using a 3-position (On-Off-On) SPDT switch which will also be the "kill switch" when in the middle position. Since there is no good location for a recharge port/kill key this switch will be the On-Off for power to the board and the toggle between batteries so when the first gets low, I can easily toggle to the 2nd to get double run time. Both batteries will be connected with JST connectors so I can also swap them out during longer events and still get double time. Everything will be accessed through the revel chamber. Since the USB on the Proffieboard needs to accessed for updates, etc. the chassis I'm using will also be accessed through the reveal chamber.
I was originally looking at a DPDT switch but it was too large to fit easily in the saber, so I'm going with the 3-position SPDT switch like so:
double-battery-3-position-switch.jpg
I've been doing an initial rough fit and it's going to be very tight but so far I'm pretty sure I can make it work, I will be "measuring thrice, cutting once" on this since I know I need to mod things to get it all to fit just right.
Started out with some measurements to get a rough idea of what I'm working with, the plan will be for the chassis and 28mm bass speaker to be in the bottom portion:
20181116_091435.jpg
I've already modified a chassis (more on that later), this will hold the Proffieboard and the SPDT switch.
20181116_091904.jpg
The chassis and speaker (without switch):
20181116_091800.jpg
The switch will extend a little into the reveal cavity so it can be accessed to turn on the saber and toggle between the batteries:
20181116_091704.jpg
Here is the initial rough plan/layout - battery - battery - chassis - speaker
20181116_092100.jpg
The chassis will not be attached to the speaker mount, the speaker mount will be fixed to the base of the inner tube (which will need to be cut once I'm 100% sure of the fit), the chassis will be able to slide up into the reveal chamber by removing the middle battery.
20181116_092725.jpg
Both batteries will be able to be accessed through the reveal chamber for recharging or swapping, they will be connected with JST connectors to the switch/board. The top one slides in first, then the chassis slides down, then the middle battery is put in.
20181116_092609.jpg
Next step will be putting the main blade neopixel connector together (hopefully this weekend) so I can make sure there is still enough room for it and to also see how the wiring works with the batteries, particularly the top one, there is room but it's going to be very, very snug with the wiring for the three connectors running the length of the saber. I am planning to use the GX-16 connector like I did on my other sabers, it's a personal choice, the PCB connectors are probably just as good but I'm comfortable with them and like that they only fit one way so I can get everything positioned how I want and repeat everytime.
More to come...
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