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Thread: Durability

  1. #11
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    If you look around at all the topics. You'll see that the limit is the blade. Even then all you have to do is replace it.

    It's satisfying to see a broken blade and the Luxeon is still lighting up.[]

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  2. #12
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    it takes extremely hard core dueling to break a TCSS blade TNWM, a stock MR blade, not so much

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  3. #13

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    I was told by JSS that you have to try to break the MR blade.

  4. #14

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    Please refer to my Durability Test and Durability Test #2 threads for some good info on the PolyC blades. [8D]


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  5. #15

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    <blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by TheNewWinduMaster

    I was told by JSS that you have to try to break the MR blade.
    <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

    He told you right. My kids have their own Ultra Sabers made with the standard MR blades. They've been slammed in mini-van doors and wacked against everything. A year later, they are still fine.

    However, dueling against people who like to hit too hard can crack an MR blade. That's when you insert your 1/8" walled blade and brain the guy.

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  6. #16
    Jedi Knight Ambo's Avatar
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    If you guys havnt heard already....the Maul Blades aree SIGNIFICANTLY thicker than previous MR blades, not as thick as the 1/8(thick walled) inch blades, but thicker than the 1/16(thin walled) inch ones. The shouldered tips for the thick walled will fit the stock MR maul blade also(inside the diffuser). The OD is slightly larger than the standard 1" blade.

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  7. #17

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    hey what about the MR obi, i heard the blade is thicker than a regular MR

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  8. #18
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    Nope, it's the same thickness as the rest.

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  9. #19

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    o ok, at comicon i saw a obi wan lookalike and it was soooooooooo cool.

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  10. #20
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    Regarding blade strength, I can safely say that when using the 1" OD, 3/4" ID blades (a mixture from Corbin when he was separate of TCSS, and a mixture of TCSS blades)...

    ..it took about a YEAR before I was able to create any significant damage on any of the blades.

    All of the damage was concentrated on tip problems and about the two to three inches just below the tip cracking along with the tip coming off.

    I'm beginning to wonder if gluing on tips is actually a GOOD idea... since when a glued tip comes off... it usually shears a piece of the poly-tube with it!

    It appears to be the TIP that rips away the poly-tube... not the impact itself. My guess.

    I've been trying JUST using clear packing tape (several wraps around the last few inches of the blade and holding the tip in place). I prefer the shouldered tips.

    This has worked WONDERFULLY in adding a little shock absorption, and also prevents the tips from flying off magnificently.

    Granted, the tape won't always look pretty up close and personal--but is not detectable from 4+ feet away... and CERTAINLY not able to be seen while dueling.
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