Wiring check

[Silver Serpent]

You're running all your LEDs at 1400mA? We typically only give them 1000mA.

If you're overdriving them for extra brightness, that's fine. The Blue and Green should be fine, not certain about the Cree Reds. I know other brands of Reds have issues with overdriving.

[FenixFire]

I just calculated the needed resistors and I want to make sure that I have it right.
So I'm going to have the two royal blue in series and they require a 0.5ohm 3w resistor, which I planned to have in there anyway.
For the red I'm calculating that it would require a 3.9ohm 10w resistor which seems high to me, but since I'm gonna be experimenting with different resistor combo's to get the shade of purple that I want do I ignore this calculation or will I need to take this into account.
-Math below please tell me if I calculated something wrong-
royal blue (2 in series)
R=[7.4v-(3.41v+3.41v)]/1.4A=0.41ohm
P=0.41ohm*1.4A^2=0.8036W
{so I need a 0.5ohm 3w resistor}
red (single)
R=[7.4v-2.59v]/1.4A= 3.4ohm
P=3.4ohm*1.4A^2=6.64W

What LED are you using? I know the Cree CX model can be pushed to 1.4A or 1400mA, but require a heatsink usually 3" diameter with 2" tall radiator fins. However, 1A or 1000mA is really pushing the XP-E2. I would heavily caution pushing a colored LED past the 1000mA.

[FenixFire]

Here are the Crees XLamp Color LED cheat sheets
http://www.cree.com/~/media/Files/Cr...ture-Sheet.pdf

[Silver Serpent]

This one: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Co...ova-P1017.aspx has ratings up to 3A, and I recall hearing Tim saying he'd tested it up to 5A without it going pop. That's a totally different LED, but it's a good testament to the Coppernova heatsink's ability to dissipate thermal energy.

[FenixFire]

This one: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Co...ova-P1017.aspx has ratings up to 3A, and I recall hearing Tim saying he'd tested it up to 5A without it going pop. That's a totally different LED, but it's a good testament to the Coppernova heatsink's ability to dissipate thermal energy.

I would HEAVILY caution the running any colored Cree E2 above 1A. This is based on the engineer that I work with who worked for Cree and was one of the engineers on the development of the Xlamps, being surprised that the colored ones hold up to a continuous 1A without melting down.
The XP-L you listed is a completely different construction and internal layout. It is a predecessor of the CX family.

SS I am currently working with OEM lighting to develop better heat sinks for the CX lines...at full power it will turn the SynkII into a cherry red disk and then go pop. We have had one heat a 2" x 2" aluminum radiator style heathink up to 300?F within a minute before the LED completely melted down.

[PhoenixHawk]

That'ssss... ...a little warm FenixFire.. I have seen some pushed to 2A, but that was having them running only for short periods of time. And they weren't in a confined space like a Aluminum Saber tube.

[Kael-Duvar Hawkens]

I originally had the buckpuck in there to bring the current down to 1A but several of you agreed for me to remove the buckpuck completely.

Originally posted by Silver Serpent
There are a few issues with your diagram.

1. The buckpuck is on the wrong side of your M-to-L converter.
2. With parallel wiring, your buckpuck is only giving ~330 mA to each LED die. (1000mA / 3)

I would toss the buckpuck out of your build entirely, and use appropriate resistors for each LED die.

3. You will need a resistor on your switch LED as Greenie said. Either calculate an appropriate value resistor, or use the DynaOhm.

I can put the buckpuck back in easily enough, If I have the buckpuck in the system then it should all run as I want correct?
and FenixFire I am using XP-E2 LED's

[Silver Serpent]

If you put the Buckpuck back into your diagram, you'll run into Issue #2 again. The Buckpuck provides 1000mA of current. If you wire the LED dice in parallel, that current will be split evenly between all three dice.

You would need to wire all three dice in series for them to be run at 1000mA each, but then new problems arise. Your voltage requirements will increase, and you will not be able to fine tune your colors anymore.

[FenixFire]

They suggested the removal of the buck-puck simply because you are wanting to run all three LEDs. I have not used a Buck-Puck per say, 12v drivers yes. But what I gathered from the documentation to drive multiple leds they need to be wired in series. This would work if all three LEDs were the same color and ideally BIN. But since you are wanting an RGB setup and presumably color mixing those LEDs, two reasons that series wiring will not work. Also for series wiring of say 3 blues you would need (3.4v*3(for the LEDs)+2v(for the driver)=12.2v minimum. Or you get the 333mA each if wired in parallel as described by SS.

Do your calculations for 1000mA and the Fv of each LED and a 3.7v battery.

This setup should run you less than $3 in resistors, if you have a good local source @ $0.75.

[FenixFire]

If color mixing you will need to multiple values of resistors for each led to get the right color balance, or use the calculated resistor and potentiometer on each led. the use the Pot to dial in the color, you'll have to search the forums for this method as there are a couple of ways and specific type of pot that appears to work better.