Good day/evening, fellows with the force.
I'll be straight to the point: having seen the diagrams in the 2010 hasbro economy sound card diagrams and the cheap-o setups that run single high power LEDs, I thought for a moment that maybe the TIP42 transistor and the 7805 regulator can be used in such a way that the board won't be fried and the LED blade would light up with the effects.
backstory: I rewired a hasbro mace windu saber (this one has blue leds, momentary switch, built in swing and clash sensor, and has the surprising - surprising at least for me - ability to run LEDs off of its speaker output straight up) with a *shudder* 317 regulator/s and a couple of 100 ohm resistors. I thought the regulator hooked up on the LED output ground would be isolated from the 12 volt circuit.
In short, I ran the card off of a 12 volt lithium polymer battery - not unlike those used for RC machines and airsoft blasters - and proceeded to summon the great big god of gray smoke. BLOODY BRILLIANT!
The LED strip I'm using is a commercially available 12 volt automotive strip light that is glued back to back and diffused with opaque wiring spiral and draws about 1 ampere on a li-po battery.
(don't worry, the lipo is secured inside a shell that fits inside the hilt that cushions hard blows, drops, and violent movements... it's the only power supply that brings out the darkness-smashing brightness of the automotive strip lights)
Now, having seen the diagrams,I have a few questions: would the TIP42C and the 7805 do the job?
I saw that the 7805 would have to dissipate the extra voltage as heat so I fully intend to heatsink the components (including the 42C)...
here's what I need the setup to do: isolate the card at 5 volts, allow full 12 volts to flow through the transistor and power the blade, and not self destruct in the process.
here are some piccies. wiring diagram 1.jpgwiring diagram 2.jpg
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